Right now is the season to be a surfer in Santa Barbara. Sure, there may be an odd-ball summer south swell or a fatty west-angled parting gift in late March, but what it all boils down to for 805-based wave sliders is that sweet 10-week window from mid December through February that we currently find ourselves smack-dab in the middle of. True to form, points, peaks, and reefs from Gaviota to Carpinteria roared to life just before the winter season officially began late last month and they have seldom subsided since, with an impressive string of Pacific storms all aiming their energy our way. Rincon has done nothing but solidify its reputation as one of the best right-hand point breaks on the planet for the past three weeks with dozens of other lesser-known points — that shall remain anonymous — doing equally impressive impersonations of world-class surf spots. And, if the weather forecasters are to be believed, it appears that local surfers should remain happy and satisfied well into 2007.
In this, the height of the Hollow Day season, The Independent offers its annual January celebration of S.B.’s surfing culture. Read on for an interview with Shaun Tomson, a first-hand tale of riding waves in Fiji, and an update on the remaining limited-edition Yater Spoon, the surfboard seen in the film Apocalypse Now.
Final Replica of Apocalypse Now’s Surfboard Hits eBay
Q & A with Shaun Tomson
Surfing and Lifeguarding in Fiji