While I like to have a little lamb but generally feel fleeced buying it, that’s not the case with the less expensive but still delicious lamb loin chop. That’s the one shaped like a T-bone, which means some eating with your hands is often helpful. This recipe is based on one I cut out of the L.A. Times years ago and finally adapted. The gremolata, a variation on the usual ossobucco accompaniment, lifts the dish in delicious ways.

For gremolata

¼ cup pine nuts, toasted

1 Tbs. thin strips orange peel (use a zester tool if you have one)

2 Tbs. chopped Italian parsley

1 clove garlic, minced

¼ tsp. kosher salt

Mix these ingredients in a small bowl and set aside at room temperature.

For chops

8 lamb loin chops

Salt and pepper

1 Tbs. flour

2 Tbs. unsalted butter, divided

2 Tbs. olive oil

1 clove garlic, minced

1 shallot, minced

½ cup syrah (the rest is for dinner)

1 cup beef stock

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Season chops with salt and pepper. Dredge the chops lightly in the flour just to dust; shake off excess. Heat 1 Tbs. of the butter and all the oil in a saute pan on medium heat. When warm, add the chops. Cook seven minutes on each side. Put chops on different saute pan and put into oven for another seven minutes (for medium/medium rare meat).

Pour out all but 1 Tbs. of oil/butter from original pan. Add garlic and shallot and stir for one minute. Add wine and deglaze (but if you have a nonstick pan, just stir). Cook until reduced to 1/4 cup. Add beef stock. Cook until reduced to one cup.

Return chops to pan with sauce. Spoon sauce over chops to glaze and cook about two minutes. Remove chops and add remaining butter to skillet to thicken.

Serve four happy people by putting two chops on a plate, drizzling some sauce, and then topping with the gremolata.

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