You’d Be Remiss to Miss Mimosa

At the end of April, Mimosa on De la Vina Street celebrated its 25th anniversary, which might cause the snide to joke, “And in another 25 years, it will almost be old enough to eat at itself.” But it’s sad that this institution has the rep of being for the older set, as if good food prepared well should only be the province of those of a certain age.

It might lack the cachet of a State Street address. It might be a bit dowdy inside (they really need a new ceiling). It might be a place-the horror!-where some gentlemen still wear ties. But it’s also got its French food down, and without being trendy in the slightest, it will please your palate.

For instance, at a recent anniversary supper-which united original owners Camille and Ann Schwartz with current chefs Chris and Derrick Melton-a very appetizing spinach flan was set into sharper relief by a zingy bagna c uda-ish sauce. Roast duck and lamb came without any request for how you might like it, which is the way it should-you pay a chef for a reason, you know. Both were properly rarer than medium and, therefore, all the more themselves. A surprising side of barley and squash was barely flecked with yellow, all the more pleasing.

Of course any French joint has to flex its dessert chops, and Mimosa does that with its signature Meringue Mimosa, the best ice cream sandwich you’ll ever have, as the “bread” is airy, eggy goodness and makes you feel as if you’re not indulging too much. But that’s the Mimosa way, offering a homey charm if only your home had fine French chefs.