Where: 138 E. Canon Perdido St., (805) 845-6488, restaurantjulienne.com
What: New American cuisine with the focus on local, organic, and sustainable.
How much: Soups and salads $8-$11, firsts $13, mains $18-$27
The dish: There’s a straightforwardness to Julienne that is deeply pleasing. Menu headings, for instance, include “The Land” and “The Sea.” They aren’t afraid to serve a first called “Cheese and Crackers.” And they know enough to let really good produce and proteins do most of the talking. Not only do Roots and Givens Farms represent, but even the seafood is sustainable. Despite this pure vision, the dishes aren’t ascetic that Maine diver scallop comes with sun choke puree, carrots capellini, mandarins and carrot nage, for instance but they are always focused on taste. It doesn’t hurt that the wine list, while brief, is exceedingly clever, meant to match the full flavors of the menu (try a Riesling with pork belly, when they have it). The service is helpful and direct. The room is simple and welcoming, decorated with just enough art to give you some diversion. But you’ll go for the food.