“It’s more about the sauce and bread,” said Ike Martinson, my waiter at a restaurant where you wouldn’t think a server would make such a claim. But it’s just the sort of thing I do want to hear—some inside info—and it makes clear there’s a human heart ticking in the corporate behemoth that is the publicly traded Ruth’s Chris Steak House, now in more than 150 locations. Simultaneously, Ike is doing his best to sell the signature barbecue shrimp, and it works on me.
Martinson explained the Ruth’s Chris experience as he sees it: “A lot of people are intimidated by it, but it’s a lot more casual than people think. It’s more of a Southern hospitality. We want people to be able to come in regularly, have favorite waiters. It’s a simple place, really—steak, butter—it’s not hard to sell.”
Meanwhile, I’m liking the barbecue shrimp more than I would want to admit. It’s a surprisingly delicate dish, a line of the crustaceans in a pinkish sauce that’s napped, not dumped, with the heat a slow build. They say it’s New Orleans style—they say that a lot as it’s all part of the Ruth Fertel founding story so crucial to personalizing the place—and while a John Besh or even more so a Leah Chase might quibble with that description, it is a truly pleasing dish. There definitely is wine reduced at its heart, giving it a satisfying richness. And then the little door stopper-shaped garlic bread hunk on the end, redolent with the stinking rose, makes a fine sopper.
Paul Wellman
Manager Hakan Kocak.
When I opt for the rib eye for my main, Ike has a plan: “Go for the Lyonnaise potatoes. Their crunch matches well with the soft steak. You won’t need more to eat.” Unlike most upscale places, he also doesn’t up-sell. There’s no effort to talk me into any of the sauces, which, alas, cost extra; he admits the USDA prime is rich enough and can get lost in blue cheese. And he doesn’t try to convince me to go for the cowboy rib eye, billed on the menu as a “huge bone-in portion.” Instead he later admits, when I can’t even finish my non-cowboy steak (I am as suburban as they come), “Everyone takes stuff home. A couple of years ago, a friend after a couple of drinks dared me to eat the whole porterhouse. That’s 40 ounces. I couldn’t sleep for two days.”
In case you’re thinking that this location’s manager, Hakan Kocak—who has worked for Peninsula Hotels and at the famed, secretive Club 33 at Disneyland—was merely setting me up with the best Ruth’s Chris has got, several other impressive servers visited me throughout the evening to chat. Nicole Flowers has also worked at what she calls the “more stuffy” Morton’s, and put the Ruth’s Chris vibe this way: “I’m not going to refer to you as a dude at the table, but they don’t require us to do a five-minute spiel, either. It’s my job to figure out what a table needs.”
Flowers also points out that, of late, Ruth’s Chris has been drawing two slightly different crowds: the regulars and those drawn in by the special Ruth’s classics summer menu: $39.95 for selected starter, entrée, personal side, and dessert. So Ruth’s Chris now seems to be about the bargain hunters, the special event-goers (at one point a “Happy Birthday” song breaks out in the bar), and the usual high rollers willing to take advantage of the spot’s Wine Spectator Award of Excellence list.
Flowers appreciates the regular Ruth’s Chris customer, too, the ones “who want to get to know us. A lot of us just graduated school or are in school, and often customers are interested in knowing what field you’re in and helping you network.” Flowers, for instance, has a biology degree but isn’t sure where she wants to go with it.
Martinson, on the other hand, is hoping to be a pilot. “I’d like to do that, but it’s a long, expensive journey,” he related. “This is an easy job to work with another career.” As he told me about his long-range plans, he almost reflexively picked up the napkin I abandoned on the table and folded it into a neat triangle. That Southern hospitality just never stops.
4•1•1
Get prime service and prime steak at Ruth’s Chris Steak House in La Cumbre Plaza (3815 State Street, Ste. #131). Call 563-5674 or see ruthschris.com.
Ruth's Chris Steak House
3815 State Street , Santa Barbara
805-563-5674. More Info
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Way overpriced and boring. Nice puff piece though.
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Noletaman (anonymous profile)
September 14, 2009 at 9:41 p.m. (Suggest removal)
When I read the egregious word " upscale" in the review of a presumably good restaurant I am automatically turned away.
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samuel (anonymous profile)
September 15, 2009 at 8:17 a.m. (Suggest removal)
I have been to dinner there twice. See all the empty tables at the back of his picture? That's pretty much the way it was both times. No wonder 3 oz of meat cost $100. Gotta pay the rent.
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taz (anonymous profile)
September 15, 2009 at 11:31 a.m. (Suggest removal)
Their BBQ shrimp is the most non-authentic New Orleans version of this dish anywhere. Really, wine? Please. Shrimp, worcetershire sauce, herbs and butter. Only.
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paperpony (anonymous profile)
September 15, 2009 at 3:45 p.m. (Suggest removal)
I too would like to add a sniffy, pompous message to this thread.
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Kratatoa (anonymous profile)
September 15, 2009 at 10:03 p.m. (Suggest removal)
Another overpriced chain comes to Santa Barbara. You are better of grabbing some prime steaks from Costco and cooking them up at home for 1/4 the price.
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ilovesb09 (anonymous profile)
September 16, 2009 at 7:40 a.m. (Suggest removal)
I liked the way you wrote it up - it's a challenge to make a chain sound interesting and human. Not just a challenge for the writer, but for the chain as well.
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LV (anonymous profile)
September 16, 2009 at 8:54 a.m. (Suggest removal)
Can't agree more with the negative comments. The SB version is only slightly less pretentious than New York City's version, but the unduly high prices are the same. The filet mignon is not only 3 or 4 times pricier than Costco, its nowhere near as good and also trails Rodney's, Lucky's and Holdren's in terms of preparation and taste.
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stevie (anonymous profile)
September 16, 2009 at 10:27 a.m. (Suggest removal)
I'm not a Ruth's Chris fan either, but to suggest you can buy the same quality of meat at Costco is pure fantasy.
Costco is a great value, but they do not sell Prime grade, as do the aforementioned specialty steak houses (and I'm still partial to Chuck's).
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binky (anonymous profile)
September 16, 2009 at 10:38 a.m. (Suggest removal)
Hey nut jobs...
It is spelled premier. Not Primer.
Who's editing copy around this place?
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BeachLivin (anonymous profile)
September 16, 2009 at 12:45 p.m. (Suggest removal)
You missed the deliberate play on words, BeachLivin:
Prime (rib) and Prime-er (service).
-- WebAdmin
webadmin (Indy Staff)
September 16, 2009 at 12:50 p.m. (Suggest removal)
"Costco is a great value, but they do not sell Prime grade"
binky, you are wrong! Costco does sell PRIME grade steaks in addition to the rest of their meat that is graded choice. It is held in a separate fridge not mixed in with the choice stuff. There are varying grades within the prime grade as well and neither Costco or Ruth Chris is selling/serving the primo stuff. However the prime grade steaks at Costco are a deal and damn tasty. Finish them off on sizzlin plate with some high quality butter and you can fool yourself into thinking you're in an overpriced steak house!
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ilovesb09 (anonymous profile)
September 16, 2009 at 2:45 p.m. (Suggest removal)
I haven't seen that separate case (and I thought I knew everything there was to know about Costco).
Where is it? I'd love to see a selection of USDA "Prime" designated meats.
I think you are in error about Ruth's Chris not selling "the primo stuff," however. That is not what they claim.
http://www.ruthschris.com/Menu/Steaks
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binky (anonymous profile)
September 16, 2009 at 2:52 p.m. (Suggest removal)
binky, it's on the end part of one of the free standing cases near the wine if that makes any sense. Not in the case that stands up against the glass with the processing going on behind in it. Typically they have NY Strips and Ribeyes. Sometimes the marbling looks worthy of a purchase other times not as much, but overall a good deal for what it is. Also if you didn't know there are often cuts that Costco stocks but aren't typically in the cases (like whole pork butts (shoulders) for example), if you don't see what you are looking for it's often worth asking one of the "butchers."
As far as Ruth Chris I'm not seeing what grade of prime grade beef they serve on your link, but I imagine it's higher than what's being sold at Costco, but likely not the top stuff? There are 9 grades within the prime level of grading, the upper level prime beef is such a small percentage that it's hard to come by as expected and would never be found at Costco or other large retailer.
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ilovesb09 (anonymous profile)
September 16, 2009 at 3:46 p.m. (Suggest removal)
Without meaning to be snarky, none of it comes close to Argentine prime beef - not Lucky's, Holdren's, Ruth's Chris, etc. - and at prices not to be believed.
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Justice (anonymous profile)
September 16, 2009 at 4:13 p.m. (Suggest removal)
My eyes will be peeled for a Prime sighting (I've been going regularly since they opened, combed the store, and never seen such brilliant offerings).
I'm a-gonna call tomorrow to find out when they anticipate such quality cuts as well.
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binky (anonymous profile)
September 16, 2009 at 6:15 p.m. (Suggest removal)
I'm glad you people are into beef and not fish.
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sixdolphins (anonymous profile)
September 17, 2009 at 3:10 a.m. (Suggest removal)
Costco has very good prime beef. Just that they sell mostly Choice. which is better than the select that most of the local grocery stores sell.
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surf2di4 (anonymous profile)
September 17, 2009 at 8:04 a.m. (Suggest removal)
sixdophins, hate to break it do you but I but I like preparing and eating lots of tasty sea creatures as much as beef. mmm even sometimes combining them into one dish. Vegetarians are evil.
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ilovesb09 (anonymous profile)
September 17, 2009 at 10:46 a.m. (Suggest removal)
These Internets are great!
I have discovered, from my new best friend "ilovesb09," that Costco has Prime beef,.
A quick call to the meat department reveals that this "experiment" began about 6 months ago, with New Yorks & filets. They have added ribeyes and sirloins, and hope to keep offering this premium grade if the public keeps buying.
Awesome. I'm beginning my dance to the God of Meat.
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binky (anonymous profile)
September 17, 2009 at 11:04 a.m. (Suggest removal)
I have been to Ruth's Chris SB about half a dozen times, and have found the food and service to be consistently inconsistent. For a restaurant of its stature this is not acceptable. On one visit I ordered the sweet potato casserole (I think the best item of any at the restaurant). The waiter returned a few minutes later to tell me the chef was "Too busy" to make the dish. Makes it hard for me to want to return.
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NORDLAND (anonymous profile)
September 18, 2009 at 8:26 p.m. (Suggest removal)
Ruth's Chris= bad over priced steak. Take your self up to Cold Springs on Sunday and get a tri-tip sandwich with fresh salsa...........................also just go down to your local butcher shop and get a fresh cut..... Hell I think the bacon wrap filet with gorgonzola cheese at the BrewHouse is better then the stuff at R.C.'s
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805RunningCrew (anonymous profile)
September 24, 2009 at 4:16 p.m. (Suggest removal)
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