Brasserie Dieu du Ciel L’Herbe à Détourne: French-Canadiens are notorious for doing things their own way, and this Montreal brewery’s New World take on a Belgian tripel falls right in line with that independent streak.

Pouring out in a foggy gold hue that smells like a freshly squeezed grapefruit skin, this citrusy ale is pungent thanks to the Citra hops, but eminently quaffable, with much pleasure derived from the creaminess of the mouthfeel, quite similar to a nitrogen draught. It’s worth tracking down at Bin 2860 in Los Olivos.

See dieuduciel.com.

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