Melville Verna’s Vineyard Viognier 2011: Often a very viscous and even pungent grape, this bottling from the vineyard in Cat Canyon near Los Alamos that Ron Melville named after his mother is much brighter, crisper, and less thick than the usual viognier. That means a lot more zing, but don’t worry — those tropical fruit notes you’ve come to love from the grape are still present, and it’s just as rich as it needs to be.

See melvillewinery.com.

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