Thacher Winery Estate Cuvée Paso Robles 2011: Paso Robles proudly boasts a historic reputation for wines with big, powerful fruit, but there’s a lot of potential for better balance on the region’s Westside, where limestone soils and cooler, coastally influenced temperatures allow for more nuanced flavors to develop over a longer ripening period.

That’s even true for typically bombastic varietals like petite sirah and zinfandel, which team up (61 and 39 percent respectively) in this excellent estate blend from Thacher’s Kentucky Ranch Vineyard. Though starting with opulent blackberry and sweet plum, the flavors quickly tighten up around nice tannins and a slightly acidic minerality. Expect this one to drink well for the years to come.

See thacherwinery.com.

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