On the deepest level, the pursuit of wave riding has much more in common with high art than it does with sport. Each wave is a once-in-a-lifetime canvas, providing the opportunity for the artist to draw lines whatever way he or she chooses.
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It’s easy to forget these days, but at the core of the surfing experience is a proud past of counter-culture antics and hilarious prankster precedent. Long before surfboards started being shaped by uncalloused hands in landlocked Asian factories and the “surf-style” became a fashionable way to dress for just about everybody this side of Paris, there was a tradition of good, clean, laugh-out-loud fun that began in the water and carried over seamlessly to the shore with stink bombs in movie theaters, parking lot hijinks, and radical Vietnam draft evasions. I
In this, the height of the Hollow Day season, The Independent offers its annual January celebration of S.B.’s surfing culture. Read on for an interview with Shaun Tomson, a first-hand tale of riding waves in Fiji, and an update on the remaining limited-edition Yater Spoon, the surfboard seen in the film Apocalypse Now.
A Tale From the Tropics
Surfing and Lifeguarding in Fiji