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Often as scary to try from a U.S. producer as it is to pronounce, this aromatic white literally means “perfumed traminer” — it originated in Tramino, Italy. Alas, Stateside production often confuses perfumed with reeking, and often a cloying sweetness too.

That’s not at all what winemaker Karen Steinwachs has done here. This delightful yet reserved offering is dry as drought yet still bright with white stone fruit and some zippy citrus. It’s great to pair with Thai food, as it tempers the heat from chilies and clears the palate with its refreshing acid core. Add one more varietal to what can be excellent in Santa Barbara County.

As for that pronunciation, go for the short version and ask for “guh-vrrtz.”

See seagrapecellars.com.

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