Burton Mound was located slightly inland from today’s West Beach. Much of the area was swampy, with mineral springs and affected by high tides. It was dominated by a slight rise, some 30 feet in height, which came to be known as Burton Mound. At the time of the founding of the presidio, in 1782, it was the site of one of the largest Chumash villages on the South Coast.
In August 1769, a member of the Gaspar de Portol¡ expedition gave a brief description of this village, Syuxtun, as the party moved up the coast. “This was the most populous of all the towns that we, so far, had seen; we estimated that it might contain more than 600 souls. : In no other place had we met natives so affectionate and good natured.”
By 1800, the settlement’s population was down to around 120, and by the early 1830s, Syuxtun had basically disappeared. Virtually all the area Chumash were either living at Santa Barbara Mission as neophytes or had succumbed to diseases introduced by the Spanish against which the natives had no defense. During this period what was to be known as Burton Mound was crowned by a building to store cattle hides.
In 1833, Joseph Chapman bought the property. Chapman had arrived in California as a crew member under Hip³lito Bouchard, a privateer who raided the South Coast in 1818. Chapman fell into the hands of the Spanish authorities and was imprisoned. He was paroled into the custody of the padres at Mission Santa Ines, and there he supervised the construction of a mill for the production of woolen cloth. Chapman later married into the Ortega family and also did construction work for Mission San Gabriel. Most probably, Chapman built the adobe that became such a familiar landmark to 19th-century Santa Barbarans. Chapman built the adobe on a bed of sheet lead to prevent seepage from the surrounding springs doing damage to the building.
The man who lent his name to the area, Lewis T. Burton, bought the site in 1860. Burton had come overland to California in 1831 and arrived in the Santa Barbara area shortly thereafter to trap otter. By this time, however, the small sea mammal had virtually vanished from the Santa Barbara Channel due to over-hunting. So Burton turned to ranching and the mercantile trade. In 1839 he married into the prestigious Carrillo family. He used the adobe as a combination general store, post office, and residence and surrounded it with orchards of pear, peach, fig, and olive. When Santa Barbara was incorporated as an American town in 1850, Burton was selected the first president of the Common Council. In 1865, he became one of the shareholders in the company that built the short-lived Chapala Street Wharf. Burton died in 1879.
The next major development in the area was the opening of the Potter Hotel in January 1903. Burton Mound was partially graded to make way for the luxury hostelry. The hotel boasted almost 600 rooms and, for a time, was the largest single employer in the city. The Potter enjoyed a national reputation for opulence and was a lynchpin of the area’s tourist industry.
The hotel burned to the ground in April 1921 and was never rebuilt. With the destruction of the hotel arose the opportunity to undertake an archaeological dig to uncover the remains of the long-lost Syuxtun. Chosen to head the project, sponsored by the Smithsonian Institution and New York’s Museum of the American Indian, was John P. Harrington. Harrington had grown up in Santa Barbara and was a leading authority on the Chumash. Work began in the spring of 1923, and by late summer more than 2,500 artifacts had been unearthed. It was a site of amazing anthropological richness. The finds were shipped to New York, where they remain today.
In the years following the dig, what was left of Burton Mound was graded down, the area was subdivided, and today there stands a mixed neighborhood of residential and commercial buildings. Even though Burton Mound has basically disappeared, in 1966 a plaque was placed signifying that the area is California Registered Historical Landmark No. 306, recognizing it as the former site of a Chumash settlement.
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Chumash smoking tocacco (Nicotiana clevelandii) was collected there in the early 20th C, proving that the Chumash were agriculturalists, slightly. Also, Chumash living there in historic times made stone bowls that were then marketed as pre-Columbian artifacts. Good on 'em! Now they have a casino, and drive far nicer cars than the ones rusting around their tiny shacks in pre-casino times. May the NIMBYs drown in their own invidious juices! May the mighty Santa Ynez River ... well, never mind.
Adonis_Tate (anonymous profile)
August 1, 2009 at 7:25 a.m. (Suggest removal)
Where exactly is the California Landmark monument ... cross streets, address?
RobertMRedfield (anonymous profile)
August 3, 2009 at 10:05 a.m. (Suggest removal)
Very interesting story. Thank you.
This area was also the first place Santa Barbara morning-glory (a native morning-glory) was collected. Calystegia sepium subsp. binghamiae (first collected by by Mrs. R.F. Bingham and named for her) is now presumed extinct. This plant was only known from wetlands in Santa Barbara, Ventura, and Los Angeles Counties, nearly all of which of which have gone the way of the wetlands at Burton Mound.
Bela (anonymous profile)
August 4, 2009 at 8:49 a.m. (Suggest removal)
Sorry folks...I need to correct the historians again...
"Nearly all the Chumash were at the mission or had died" is simply NOT true.
There were thousands who were forced to Mexico [Sanora,Chapala,Granada & others] in a "labor exchange"...
& still many others [some my family] who were living in the surrounding mountains to avoid capture & death.
The artifacts that were discovered at "Burton mound" [not it`s real name] were indeed sent to various museums,but NOT the ACTUAL artifacts found!...These were stolen by the Chumash enroute & dispersed to certain tribe members...like me, for safe-keeping.
TIP: If you want to learn about the Chumash...ask a Chumash.
PeterPeli (anonymous profile)
October 6, 2010 at 4:17 p.m. (Suggest removal)