Red Dragon is a cheese-not just a tattoo mentioned in a famous Fountains of Wayne song-and in the hands of Sage & Onion’s (34 E. Ortega St., 963-1012) Steven Giles, that cheese rises to heavenly heights. Right now, Giles is serving a souffle that melts in your mouth, not in the phyllo cup in which in rests but also from which it earns a bit of heft and chew. Alongside a deeply berried sauce and a slight mound of arugula, this dish does exactly what an appetizer should do-sharpen and entice and leave plenty of room for more. Visit sageandonion.com