I’ve hyped Renaud Gonthier before and no doubt will do so again because my taste buds rule my food writing roost. But there’s nothing quite like walking into his patisserie in Loreto Plaza (3315 State St., 569-2400, renaudsbakery.com) and finding a tray of pain au chocolat has just arrived at the counter from the oven. It’s worth lurking in the parking lot to pop in at the right time. These flaky wonders sort of ooze butter, but then the bitter, sweet, utter delight of fine chocolate cuts that richness, and multiplies it, too, of course. France has come to Santa Barbara.