Full Belly Files | Getting Educated on Abalone, Then Eating It

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The most reliable source of fresh, California-grown abalone from Santa Barbara to the Mexican border is The Cultured Abalone, an aquaculture farm that’s existed on Dos Pueblos Ranch along the Gaviota Coast for more than three decades now. The farm remains one of the few saving graces for fans of the beautifully shelled mollusk, whose native populations were decimated by disease and overfishing so much that commercial take of the animals was basically banned south of the San Francisco Bay in 1997.

Chef Paul Osborne and Matt at The Cultured Abalone

Surprisingly, despite that track record, very few people outside of the fishing community or higher-end foodie worlds know that The Cultured Abalone even exists. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve explained this to people who stare back with blank eyes, confounded that an active aquaculture operation is happening just a stone’s throw from Highway 101.

That may start to change, as The Cultured Abalone is making public outreach a much bigger goal than it’s ever been before. They’re hosting more regular tours, and making their gift and seafood shop more accessible to everyone. And they’re starting to throw tasting parties too, where chefs and winemakers add extra sensory fun to the educational tour.

I experienced one such gathering last Saturday, when Chef Paul Osborne of Santa Barbara Fish Market Café in Goleta worked his mollusk magic while winemaker James Sparks poured his Kings Carey Wines. Of course, we did the tour first, which our guide Andie Van Horn ran with a confident grasp on tons of information, easily able to answer even our weirdest questions.

We learned about the stages of abalone life, the process for acquiring and nourishing the “crops,” and the dangers that they may face even when safely in their tanks. It was a hands-on affair, as we could touch the small abalone growing in the tanks and even the purple urchin that the farm is fattening in other tanks.

From left: See abalone in all stages of growth at The Cultured Abalone; Purple urchin at The Cultured Abalone

It wasn’t my first time at the abalone farm, although I realized that my previous visits were either about purple urchins for this 2021 cover story or about the ambitious attempt to create the Dos Pueblos Institute on the property. (That dream appears dead for now.) It was, then, my first proper tour, and I’d easily do it again.

The bonus, of course, was the food and drink that followed. As we sipped on bubbles, chardonnay, sémillon, and chillable grenache from Kings Carey, Chef Paul held court at the grill, explaining the long two-day process of shelling, braising, soaking, and grilling up the abalone.

It was about three more cooking steps than I’d have the patience to endure, but the results were no joke — I’ve had a good amount of abalone in my life, and often find it to be a bit tough, or sometimes just okay. Chef Paul’s was fantastic, rich and savory and just the right texture, easily the best I’ve ever had. There were some purple urchins to slurp down too for those who were interested.

I was told that this sort of Saturday would become more frequent in the future. I’d highly recommend it, and I’m excited to go back. Maybe I can even figure out a way to get involved and share some of my own wines.

S.L.O. Wine Person of the Year

From left: Chris Taranto at The Rodeo Bar in Paso Robles; Corn dog at the Mid-State Fair

Last Friday, I had the distinct honor of presenting Christopher Taranto with the San Luis Obispo County Wine Person of the Year Award at the Mid-State Fair in Paso Robles. I’ve known Chris for the better part of 20 years, and he’s become a close friend and colleague, due to his job as communications director at the Paso Robles Wine Country Alliance.

A funny twist was that I was actually nominated for the award too. I didn’t expect to win, especially when I heard there were some heavy hitters on the ballot, and I don’t even live in Paso. The morning I was told I didn’t win, and that Chris did, he was such an obvious and deserving choice that I realized I never had a chance.

But then Chris gave me a ring, too, an hour or so later to ask if I’d present him the award, saying that I was always on the top of his list even before he even knew I was nominated. That was maybe even more of an honor than getting nominated at all. Plus, I had the date saved, so I was in, of course.

I had some fun with the presentation, briefly pretending that I’d been tricked into presenting because they told me that I had won. But then came my real remarks followed by Chris’s speech and the presentation of a plaque and a belt buckle. (You can see my remarks and some pics here.)

We followed up by eating corndogs and French fries at the fair before getting the last dishes and sips served at In Bloom and then more beers at The Rodeo Bar. It was somehow my first time at the Rodeo, or at least the first time I remember being there. All told, a great night.