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With the faceless beast of big business devouring the soul of surfing one high-gloss advertising campaign at a time, there is perhaps no greater guardian of the holy than Australian surfer Andrew Kidman.
On the deepest level, the pursuit of wave riding has much more in common with high art than it does with sport. Each wave is a once-in-a-lifetime canvas, providing the opportunity for the artist to draw lines whatever way he or she chooses.
It’s easy to forget these days, but at the core of the surfing experience is a proud past of counter-culture antics and hilarious prankster precedent. Long before surfboards started being shaped by uncalloused hands in landlocked Asian factories and the “surf-style” became a fashionable way to dress for just about everybody this side of Paris, there was a tradition of good, clean, laugh-out-loud fun that began in the water and carried over seamlessly to the shore with stink bombs in movie theaters, parking lot hijinks, and radical Vietnam draft evasions. I
In this, the height of the Hollow Day season, The Independent offers its annual January celebration of S.B.’s surfing culture. Read on for an interview with Shaun Tomson, a first-hand tale of riding waves in Fiji, and an update on the remaining limited-edition Yater Spoon, the surfboard seen in the film Apocalypse Now.
Replica of Apocalypse Now’s Surfboard Hits eBay
Surfing and Lifeguarding in Fiji
The first DVD to hit this spot, this surf flick about the massive, tempermental break off of San Miguel Island is a must-see for locals, foreigners, and anyone interested in surfing or the power of the ocean. The bonus up-close footage of a great white shark doesn’t hurt either.
