The other week Solvang hosted its annual Danish Days Celebration for the 75th time — authentic foods, music, folk dancing, and parades. Of course, as a real native of Denmark, I had to check that out.
I remember visiting the Danish capital of California for the first time six years ago when I’d just moved from Denmark to Santa Barbara to do a 10-month study visit. Feeling unimpressed and a bit insulted, I thought long and hard about this make-believe Danish town which to me seemed more like an Austrian village that had been sneezed on by a Norwegian with Danish ancestry. Authentic is not the word I would use to describe the Danish-founded city — but, then again, strolling through Chinatown in New York is nothing like walking the streets of any village, town, or city in China.
After a handful of visits and a lot of headshaking — and despite the naïve and old-fashioned image that Solvang gives of Denmark — I have come to understand why locals and tourists find pleasure in visiting the Danish-American city. The place is indeed fascinating.
A bit anxious of what was awaiting me during the so-called Danish Days Celebration, I brought along my five-year old “sister” Kaci, the middle child of the host family I lived with six years ago. If anything, she can brighten even your darkest day.
Driving into Solvang, you could feel the festivities going on. Danish and American flags decorated the streets, people of all ages were strolling around, some dressed in old-fashioned outfits, others dressed like Vikings. Needless to say, we do not wear such clothes anymore and Vikings haven’t been around for ages. Also, it puzzled me why aebleskiver was served as breakfast when in Denmark they are served as snacks or desserts only during Christmas. And as an avid aebleskiver eater, may I just add that the American version of aeblerskiver is nothing but a nice try.
Anyway, our first stop was the Lego play area. Lego is the essence of my childhood, and I still to this day enjoy playing with the multicolored plastic building blocks. As we make our way to Copenhagen Drive to catch the Children’s Parade, a trio is playing music on the stage at Solvang Park. All dressed in antiquated Danish clothing — which reminds me more of Norway than of Denmark — they play what I assume is Danish music from way back when. I do not recognize the music, nor do I understand the lyrics. Kaci comes to the conclusion that it is “definitely not Spanish” because she knows how to say aqua. I decide that it is not Danish either.
We make it to Copenhagen Drive in time for the Children’s Parade. It might just be the shortest parade I have ever seen, but one balloon and “hundreds and hundreds of candies” later, we walk back to Solvang Park for some face painting, bouncy castle fun, and closing ceremonies.
Before leaving town, we visit Olsen’s Danish Village Bakery on Mission Drive. All sorts of familiar pastries catch my eye and, for the first time, a feeling of familiarity overwhelms me. The lady in front of me in the line starts ordering pastries with a heavy Danish accent. Like me, she seems to be impressed with the familiar selection of treats and has clearly made up her mind to try everything she recognizes. I must say that the bakeries in Solvang do bring a certain authenticity to the Danish feel of the city.
Upon leaving Solvang, I can’t help but feel disappointed. None of the booths at Solvang Park served traditional Danish foods, and despite the Danish music that was played, none of which you would ever hear in Denmark anymore, except for at the annual European Medieval Festival in my hometown, nothing about the Danish Days Celebration felt particularly Danish to me.



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perhaps,camilla,you could offer your services to the festival participants as an authenticity consultant.there may be a need.
GluteousMaximus (anonymous profile)
October 1, 2011 at 6:58 a.m. (Suggest removal)
Shocking! Small, isolated United States town offers inaccurate view of current Danish daily life! Danish Anti Defamation Society should boycott all things Solvangish!
I too shall demonstrate solidarity by boycotting all incorrect depictions of Italian culture. First, I'll begin looking for a correct depiction of Italian culture...this will take awhile...
italiansurg (anonymous profile)
October 1, 2011 at 7:42 a.m. (Suggest removal)
Kamilla,
I think you've entirely missed the point. This country, unlike Denmark, (or anywhere else in Europe) is composed of people from all over the world. "Chinatown," "Little Italy," and the rest are just a place for people with those backgrounds to get a hint of their homeland (usually in the form of familiar foods). But actually, none of them live up to their home country. I hope people aren't visiting Solvang in lieu of actually visiting Denmark! A visit to San Francisco's Chinatown is very interesting and fun, but does anyone think it replaces an actual visit to China?? Solvang was originally settled by Danes and many Danes still own much of the commercial area of Solvang and even sit on the City Council. So, maybe those are the guys you should talk with about your disappointments.
Is there an America Town in Copenhagen?
Whoknew (anonymous profile)
October 1, 2011 at 12:31 p.m. (Suggest removal)
Haha, very funny article. I've never been to Denmark and I thought Solvang was only a tourist trap, uhh, destination, in the same way Mickey Mouse is not a real rodent.
at_large (anonymous profile)
October 1, 2011 at 2:27 p.m. (Suggest removal)
I might be cutting my own throat by saying this, but despite my Danish-sounding surname, my patrilineal heritage is Norwegian.
I already see people with swords and viking hats heading my yelling at me in Danish to get out.
All joking aside I think it was a good article.
billclausen (anonymous profile)
October 1, 2011 at 3:10 p.m. (Suggest removal)
As a side note: pizza is an American dish and spaghetti came to Italy via Marco Polo's adventures in China.
billclausen (anonymous profile)
October 1, 2011 at 3:15 p.m. (Suggest removal)
Thanks Kamilla for a very humorous piece. That to me is the essence of a visit to Solvang ... "hundreds and hundreds of candies (and pastries)"!
If its any consolation, my neighbor (she immigrated from Denmark after WW2 and just passed away, God bless her soul) didn't seem to think much of Solvang. I sensed she too thought of it simply as a "nice try".
For some groups, America can be a real homogenizing experience. My Norwegian friends laughed off the lutefisk dinner held each Christmas at the Seaman's Church down in San Pedro and thought the costumes were funny (but they are guilty themselves each May 17, right?). And one of my friends from Milan has related some humorous attempts at trying to speak Italian with folks down at the Italian Grocery (one wonders if its due to "Americanization", a time warp, or both).
Folks with more recent ties to the homeland have more authentic icons here in the US. All the great Indian and Chinese restaurants serving their high-tech expats up in Silcon Valley come to mind.
EastBeach (anonymous profile)
October 1, 2011 at 5:14 p.m. (Suggest removal)
Many thoughtful Danes such as Kamilla eventually overcome their initial bafflement at this hybrid culture and warm up to the hospitality. A visit to the Elverhoj Museum might help, or a chat with Danes like Bent Olsen of Aero who began the bakery K liked. I personally admire all the hard work the third and fourth-generation descendants go to in putting on a party for a zillion strangers for free. By the way, the Aalborg Police Band played string instruments in Solvang Park from 10 to 11:30 a.m. through the weekend. The group of 20 began in 1920 and from 1936-1960 organized Christmas concerts for the citizens of Aalborg. They rehearse every Monday evening at Aalborg Police Station. We are glad Kamilla came to visit, sorry she was disappointed in some aspects of the celebration, and hope she will return.
mr_helpful (anonymous profile)
October 2, 2011 at 8:03 a.m. (Suggest removal)
I am glad it's a hybrid culture. Can you imagine what would have happened had a Norwegian showed up in a Danish village a few centuries ago? We're all friends now.
billclausen (anonymous profile)
October 2, 2011 at 3:46 p.m. (Suggest removal)
Remember, it's Solvangland. In California. It's meant to be kitschily quaint and a mashed-up replica of European decor, which, for many, is as close as they'll ever get to Europe.
Some of us have been lucky enough to travel. We get it. The French Quarter in New Orleans dates back to the early 1700's and is not particularly very French-looking. It's small, narrow-streeted, and as close to Europe as the South gets.
Now if you want some real old to ancient North American (the continent, not the country) authenticity, you can go to Santa Fe and see buildings built in 1602, or head over to the Acoma Indian Reservation west of Albuquerque off I-40 and visit Sky City where humans have dwelt continuously since the 1100's. Now that's the real thing and truly magical.
The American Southwest is loaded with authenticity, but you have to travel by car to get there and by foot to seek out the real places that make our country so dang interesting.
For Denmark, gotta go to Europe. There's no other way. Places like Solvang, Gatlinberg, Frankenmuth, and Fredericksberg are mere visual and cultural approximations. Like Leggoland. If you wanna see the real one, you have to travel to the planet Leggomyleg.
Draxor (anonymous profile)
October 3, 2011 at 12:09 p.m. (Suggest removal)
For most Americans, it's all just "heritage." Danish, Norwegian, Swedish, even Dutch or German... hey it all blends together, involves blonde people, great pastries, pickled fish, liver in various forms, marzipan, beer, Ingmar Bergman, Ingrid Bergman (hubba), Legos, Gouda, viking hats, dirndls and leiderhosen? ok, o with a slash through it, half-timbered buildings, windmills, and best of all, abelskiver at any time of day!
Of course it's not about realistic modern Denmark. Modern Denmark is just about cell phones, right?
Actually the settlement of Solvang by "happy Danes" is a good bit of history and worth a read.
Nitz (anonymous profile)
October 6, 2011 at 11:48 a.m. (Suggest removal)