Ernest’s The Artist Pinot Noir

From a very young vineyard (planted in 2012) in the Green Valley of the Russian River Valley, this pinot noir is surprisingly evolved and sophisticated — not hinting at any immaturity. Lovely and fetching, it leads with floral notes of dusty rose echoed in the body along with dried cherry/cranberry fruit. Aging it in 40 percent new French oak for 10 months adds more to the silky texture than the flavor. Pop it with something such as salmon with green harissa and you’ll have a fine evening.

And if you’re wondering, there is an Ernest: He’s the grandfather of Todd Gottula, who founded the winery with his wife, Erin Brooks, when they escaped the tech world for Sonoma. How nice of them to love cool-climate Burgundy and want to share.

See ernestvineyards.com.