A Santa Barbara Surfing Story

The New Documentary ‘Eternal Stoke’ Explores the Life of Local Surfer Chris Brown

Chris Brown in action | Photo: Tom Servais

Known for his ever-present smile, Chris Brown was a fixture in the Santa Barbara surfing community until his death in 2019. A new documentary by award-winning filmmaker Josh Pomer explores the highs and lows of Brown’s salt-infused life story. “Chris Brown is one of the best surfers to come from Santa Barbara and also one of the beloved,” said Pomer in a phone interview. “It’s a Santa Barbara story and a growing-up story.” His film, Eternal Stoke, will premiere on June 14 at 7 p.m. at the Lobero Theatre.

A larger-than-life figure, Brown had an electric style as a surfer that reflected his high-energy personality. At age 10, he learned to surf from his father, Dave, at Hendry’s Beach, and by his teens, Brown drew comparisons to three-time world champion Tom Curren.

“He was ridiculously good at that age,” said surf historian Matt Warshaw in a 2019 interview. “Fast and quick, he could put his board anywhere, and in that respect, he was like Curren.” At 18, Brown qualified for the ASP World Tour, the highest level of competition in surfing at the time.

But there was more to Brown than surfing. “The way he made other people feel, it was like how, when the wind starts way in the middle of the ocean, it creates this ripple effect and it spreads in every direction,” said Chris Keet, owner of Surf Happens, who first met Brown in his teens. “That was the power of his positive energy.”

After the birth of his daughter, Chloë, Brown stepped back from competing full-time and returned to Santa Barbara. “He had a very private side that he didn’t really share with a lot of people,” said Chloë Brown. “I feel like there are parts about him that would touch people to know.”

In the years after he stopped competing full-time, Brown deepened his involvement with the Santa Barbara community by volunteering for local events and bringing his boundless stoke to everyone he met. “Despite all the challenges and the demons he faced, he really just loved to surf,” said Keet. “And he loved to be a contributor to the community.”

Brown evolved into an accomplished big-wave surfer and worked as an urchin diver. When he died in 2019, the local surf and fishing communities packed his memorial and paddle-out ceremonies. “People say that Chris Brown had saltwater in his veins,” said Pomer.

Originally from Santa Cruz, Pomer received a film studies degree from UCSB and got his start making surf films with his friends. A breakthrough came in 1992 when Pomer released a surf film, The Kill, which evolved into an eight-film series. An ambition to make narrative documentaries inspired The Westsiders, which followed the lives of three Santa Cruz surfers who came from broken homes and struggled with addiction. Chasing Mavericks explored the Northern California big-wave break and the eclectic characters who risked their lives to surf it.

The premiere of Eternal Stoke will feature music by Burleigh Skidmore, a silent auction, and a raffle. Proceeds from the event will fund the Chris Brown Scholarship by Olas Foundation. “The scholarship is so fitting to my dad’s legacy, because one of the things he was most proud of was putting me through college,” said Chloë Brown. “I felt like it was super poetic that he could continue to do that for other people.”

This year the scholarship program aims to support four surfers as they continue their education.

Founded by Karon Pardue and Mary Osborne, the Olas Foundation is a nonprofit that brings together teen volunteers for a variety of ocean-focused service projects. Their work includes environmental cleanups, education classes, and service trips to communities abroad. Selection for the Chris Brown scholarship is based on a combination of ocean awareness and community service. “You have to be a good human being by giving back to your community, loving the ocean, and showing respect,” said Pardue. “And, be a good surfer.”

Any additional funds from the film premiere will go toward a future documentary about longtime Santa Barbara surfboard shaper John Bradbury, founder of Creative Freedom. For now, though, Pomer is excited to bring Chris Brown’s story to the screen and share it with the Santa Barbara community. “I think it’s cool to see how Chris was so nice and genuine with people,” said Pomer. “I hope people will come out of the theater wanting to be like that — maybe take an extra moment with someone when you see them.”

See bit.ly/3SKLCfM for tickets and information. For more information on donations, see bit.ly/4dqNBj4.