Of all the relatively accessible foodstuffs and drinkables, cheese may be the most complex and alchemical. So, regulars at the Santa Barbara Cheese Shop may already feel as if they’re part of an insider’s club.
It’s an educational experience to peruse the cases and shelves for the latest selections while listening to proprietors Michael and Kathryn Graham explain the animals, processes, and aging methodologies involved in each creation. Similar stories spill forth about the wide range of charcuterie and the pantry items on offer, leading to the sense that you’re cracking ancient codes on the way to epicurean excitement.
But this month, the Cheese Shop, which the Grahams originally opened in 2003 as C’est Cheese, launched an official subscription club for their most diehard cheeseheads, opening the doors to even more obscure discoveries at a monthly clip.
“We want to bring in stuff that hasn’t been here yet,” said Michael. “We can do one-offs with these cheeses, and don’t have to build a new spot for it in the case.”
The Standard Club includes three cheeses and one paired item for $65. The Deluxe Club, for $95, adds two gourmet products that they’re intrigued by, such as a koji shoyu or smoked risotto rice. On top of that, true aficionados can add a bottle of wine for $40 — good stuff via The Source Imports — and $15 for more charcuterie. And then, more special club bennies.
Upon announcing the program in August, the signups came at a faster than expected clip, approaching nearly 40 when the shop thought 20 would be a successful start. That’s much better than when they tried to do something similar 15 years ago, when very few people, and no locals, joined. It’s pretty much all locals for the new club, which is powered by a third-party company called Table22 that handles all the logistics.
But the selections are still very much Michael Graham’s game. Last month’s package included a mini-mostarda from Italy, in which the cow cheese sits in a slick of Dijon, sporting a bright white rind with a yellowy, yet surprisingly mellow core. There’s also the Andante Dairy California goat cheese called Ostinato, from classical music fan and biochemist Soyoung Scanlan who names her cheeses after musical terms, in this case meaning “obstinately repeating.”
The kicker would be the Idyll by Parish Hill Creamery. Wrote Michael in the release, “Idyll is a reflection of cheesemaker John Putnam’s philosophy. That the most beautiful cheeses come not from shortcuts or modern conveniences, but from patience, tradition, and a profound respect for the land.”
As Michael told me, “He’s the most hardcore of American cheesemakers.” Where else are we getting that?
Visit https://bit.ly/3ICuUxG to sign up, and learn more about the Santa Barbara Cheese Shop’s Cheese Club at cheeseshopsb.com.
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