Heirlooms might be all the rage, but no matter; homegrown is the best. I’m talking tomatoes, of course. Santa Barbara gardens should be just entering their peaks right now, producing tomatoes by the ton. It’s not really summer for me until I slice up my first Celebrity from the backyard, ready and red and juicy and needing nothing more than a spritz of salt and a grind of pepper. I don’t get the old way of sugaring a tomato, as I like mine a bit bracing -sweet but with plenty of acid to cut any cloyness. I say eat them like the fruit they are.