It’s Easter, so Eastern European-rooted me thinks wistfully of kolache, one of the few foods from my mom’s Slovak heritage I miss (they tend to be a carbo-packing folk). Lots of pastries get sold under this generic name, but the true Slovakian varieties are foot-long rolls stuffed with either nuts and golden raisins or poppy seed. The dough is the big secret, though-something you have to more or less work out to stir, it’s so elastic. But once browned with a bit of butter to help it glaze, it’s a wonder, and rolled with its stuffing it’s something truly, authentically, other-worldly delicious.


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