Roark Sauvignon Blanc

Roark Wine Company Sauvignon Blanc, Happy Canyon 2013: When a young winemaker is such a garagiste that he’s best known for his chenin blanc, that’s a hint he’s not making much juice. But such is the case with the talented Ryan Roark, who likes to lease rows where he can farm and do everything himself.

Enter his delicious sauvignon blanc, sourced from Vogelzang and McGinley Vineyards. It walks a knife-edge of fruit and acid so well it’s practically thrilling, a fine sipper as an aperitif or a perfect accompaniment to a meal (say all that great halibut getting caught right now). He ages the wine in both natural oak and stainless, and that no doubt helps create this balance and accentuates its mineral character.

If sauv blanc has been boring you, try some of this, but move fast as there isn’t much of it and it’s just $18 a bottle.

See roarkwinecompany.com.