Frito Pie @ Wildwood Kitchen

Nestled in the hipster haven on the corner of Haley and Laguna streets known as The Mill, Wildwood Kitchen is generating generous buzz around town for its artisan barbecue, most nights selling out of its popular dry-rubbed brisket and ’cue-glazed, fall-off-the-bone pork ribs. (We luckily got in our orders of both right before they ran out.) One must-try that is less subject to the volatile meat market is the Frito Pie. What polite society would classify as “comfort food,” this munchie medley off Wildwood’s starter menu mixes house-made chili, cheese, tender chunks of chopped meat (whatever’s not sold out yet when you order, presumably), and, of course, the titular chip, all served in the telltale red-and-yellow bag that’s littered dorm-room floors for time immemorial. Garnished with a hearty dollop of sour cream and sliced green onions, it’s part chili-cheese fry, part nacho, and all good, bro. $13. 410 E. Haley St., (805) 845-3995, wildwoodkitchensb.com.