Salmon-6-Steps @ Sun Sushi

The stairway to foodie heaven is paved with six steps of salmon. If that proverb doesn’t quite resonate, then you’ve yet to visit Sun Sushi on upper State Street.

This superior neighborhood spot features two “6-steps” on their menu: One is bluefin tuna six ways, and the other is salmon. The latter is half the price ($18.95 versus $37.95), so let’s begin there.

The dish is served on an ascending wooden staircase, each step showcasing a new flavor and/or texture. You get two slices each from three types of salmon — Scotty, Atlantic, and Ocean-Trout — and they are varied across different cuts and preparations, including one that’s slightly seared. They’re further enhanced by a specific sauce, from lemon juice to yuzu to ponzu to hidden dabs of wasabi.

Though the road to spiritual heaven mandates sharing, the path to foodie heaven requires a more selfish route: Eat these steps all by yourself, as you may miss the best bite if you dare share. That’s what happened on my first visit, when I eyeballed the ones I wanted and staked my chopstick claims, only to miss step two, which turned out to be a favorite.

Despite the differences, every step of salmon is super fresh and just melts in your mouth. Once you master each salmon level on your own, tackle the bluefin-tuna belt next.

3631 State St.,; (805) 845-7720; sbsunsushi.com