S.L.O.-cation

The sturdy coast live oaks gently swayed during a light, southeast wind. Their crunchy leaves rattled with each wispy gust on the mostly shaded, four-mile-out-and-back Cerro San Luis Mountain Trail, surrounded by San Luis Obispo (S.L.O.).

Once above the tree line, and after gaining the summit and its 1,200 feet of elevation gain, I gazed 360 degrees at the rich diversity surrounding S.L.O. Cerro San Luis Mountain is well-known locally as one of the Nine Sisters, or the Morros (Spanish for “mountain”), nine prominent volcanic peaks that line in a row all the way to Morro Bay, with Morro Rock being the last one to the northwest.

From my lofty perch, the mellow Central Coast city was just awakening as I scanned with my binoculars to the east/northeast. Behind me to the west, open lands and agricultural fields stretched to Morro Rock. My perch also revealed the tallest coastal sand dunes in the state at the Guadalupe-Nipomo Sand Dunes National Wildlife Refuge.

I shared the trail with mountain bikers and trail runners, and after finishing my easy ramble on this sandstone-laden coastal peak, I said to myself, “Nothing is far away here.” And before I knew it, I was descending into downtown S.L.O.

What’s in a Smell?

Of course, before I clambered up Cerro San Luis Mountain, I made an easy pitstop at S.L.O. Provisions. As soon as I walked into the naturally lit café, I was overwhelmed by the fresh smell of cinnamon rolls just pulled from the oven.

Located on the corner of Monterey Street, the all-day take-away eatery is also great for dining inside. Rivaling those delicious cinnamon rolls was the intoxicating smell of freshly cut bacon. Of course, I ate well before hitting Cerro San Luis Mountain. (sloprovisions.com)

Classically Cool

After getting off the dusty trail, I checked in at the historic Granada Hotel. Tucked away on 1130 Morro Street, the classic brick building with its original wood floors has been a staple in S.L.O. since 1922. For 46 years, up until 1968, Mr. & Mrs. Remage ran their hotel. It was a popular enclave for traveling actors and artists alike, but, according to the Granada Hotel website, rooms were rented by the hour throughout the 1920s.

At one point, the hotel became a low-income housing project, up until 2012, when it was slated for demolition. The Nomada Hotel Group took control and restored the iconic building, adding the Granada Bistro restaurant and adjoining speakeasy Nightcap bar. The Bistro has indoor and outdoor seating, the lighting was magical, and the staff was always friendly and accommodating.

While strolling the low-lit hallways of the Granada Hotel, I felt the nostalgia and history of the 1922 establishment. Yet, throughout the cozy, 17-room hotel, the walls are adorned with contemporary art and photography by local and international artists. There were two relaxing guest lounges within the hotel, and one more upstairs that’s an outside balcony overlooking Morro Street. These were relaxing little escapes within the Granada, ideal for reading or working remotely.At the Bistro, the fried potatoes and pan-seared sea bass were exquisite, and the decadent peanut-butter cake was a real topper. After dinner, I stepped across the hallway to the Nightcap, where I made the difficult choice over which martini to sip on before retiring to my cozy room. (granadahotelandbistro.com)

City Farming

The next morning, I met the owners and a slew of volunteers descending on City Farm S.L.O. Located just off Highway 101 between the Madonna Inn, several car dealerships, and Prefumo Creek, the farm was established in 1994 and has far-reaching community involvement.

I had a tour of the roughly 180-acre farm, admiring the diversity of projects and its sustainable agricultural production. Students from area schools and Cal Poly San Luis Obispo participate in all the farming practices.

City Farm S.L.O. supplies produce to many restaurants and hotels in S.L.O., including S.L.O. Provisions and the Granada Hotel and Bistro.

One of the more interesting projects the farm contributes to is assisting with the restoration of Prefumo Creek. The nonprofit keeps two species of sheep on the farm. Each morning, the sheep are led by volunteers to areas along the edge of the creek to feed on pesky non-native vegetation that’s challenged restoration efforts. Prefumo Creek eventually converges with San Luis Creek, where reestablishing schools of steelhead trout is a priority.

The morning I was there, I got to follow along as several Cal Poly students herded the small band of sheep toward a section of the creek tangled in non-native ivy. There’s nothing like letting hungry ranch animals take care of the invasive flora to reestablish habitat for native species. (cityfarmslo.org)

Water Time

I don’t think I’ve ever been to S.L.O. without getting into the ocean at some point. There’s a lot to choose from: surfing its various breaks, stand-up paddling among southern sea otters in Morro Bay, or kayaking out of Port San Luis Harbor to the historic Point San Luis Lighthouse.

I made the historic choice, and rented a kayak from Avila Beach Paddlesports (avilabeachpaddlesports.com). Located in Port San Luis, the launch was right off their dock, and before I knew it, I was congregating with sea otters, California sea lions, and seabirds.

I paddled under the pier toward the elongated, wave-battered seawall. Where the coast and the seawall converged was a tiny pocket beach where I easily landed. From there, I took a short walk to the renovated lighthouse. Originally constructed in 1890, it was renovated in 1995.It’s a great day trip, lunch spot, and a history lesson all in one. There are docent-led tours with pointsanluislighthouse.org, but you’re permitted to walk the lighthouse grounds on your own if you paddle there.