Glamping Under Canvas Is the Way to Go

I’ve always wanted to explore the Pacific Northwest, and I knew that if I ever had the chance to go, I would make sure to stay somewhere that fully immersed me in the natural landscape. 

Which is precisely why Under Canvas’s new location on the Columbia River Gorge in Washington stood out to me. Their safari-inspired tents (depending on which one you book) come with a bathroom and shower — yes, with hot water — a king-size bed, a fireplace, and a couch to lounge on: more resort than camping, which is right up my alley. 

By the time my fiancé and I unpacked our bags, we were already planning our next trip to more Under Canvas locations, of which there are 14: Grand Canyon, Great Smoky Mountains, Mount Rushmore, Acadia, Bryce Canyon, Glacier, Great Smoky Mountains, Lake Powell – Grand Staircase, Moab, North Yellowstone: Paradise Valley, West Yellowstone, White Mountains, Yosemite, and Zion. 

This is Under Canvas’s first season for their Columbia River Gorge location in Washington’s White Salmon River Valley, which is open from April 23 through October 26. We were there for a three-night stay, and we certainly made the most of our limited time. 

Day 1: 

For our first evening, we opted for a cozy night in, which meant turning on the fireplace to warm up our tent. For dinner, we headed up the gravel path to the main lodging area, a walk that distinctly reminded me of those trust walks at 6th-grade camp, where each kid had to walk alone in the dark. 

Likewise, the main lodge, full of guests playing games and sipping warm cider, had the cozy feel of a grown-up summer camp, especially with Under Canvas’s nightly activities — this evening’s being an Apple Cider Bar.

After sipping cider (spiked with a shot of whisky) over a tense game of Scrabble, during which my fiancé played the word “picnic,” earning him — surprisingly — 30 points, we grabbed our complimentary s’mores. We roasted them over the fire, chatting with a couple and their friendly dog (yes, Under Canvas welcomes furry friends), who also arrived that day. Then we made our way back to the tent, and it was lights out by 9. 

Day 2:

We rose at 6 a.m., an hour and a half before sunrise, and promptly got ready for the day. We walked up the path to the lodge, grabbed our complimentary coffee, and enjoyed it while watching the sunrise over Mount Hood — a view I could never tire of.

At 8 a.m., we hopped in the car and made our way to that day’s adventure: a four-mile hike on the Buck Falls Trail, about a 30-minute drive from Under Canvas. It’s a relatively moderate trail with some incline. Plus, you don’t have to go the whole way to see the star of the show, the waterfall, which is only .2 miles into the trail. 

After our hike, we made our way back to Under Canvas for a shower and a quick respite. Then, an hour later, we were back on the road, making our way to the Hood River Fruit Loop, which refers to the Hood River valley, home to 32 fruit stands, wineries, breweries, and cideries. 

As proud cider fans, we promptly stopped at The Gorge White House, a cidery known for its large white house built in 1910. We ordered the flight, which includes eight types from super dry to fruity and sweet. Our favorite was the classic Apple, a perfectly dry cider made from 100 percent Newton apples, and the Cherry, which is made from the apple base and finished with Pacific Northwest tart cherries. 

In classic Pacific Northwest fashion, the rain had started rolling in by the time we arrived back at camp. Naturally, we put two chairs in front of the fire and sipped the cider we had purchased while rain clattered on the tent, tumbling away like loose marbles. 

Day 3: 

This day’s adventure was admittedly a last-minute decision — but as far as last-minute decisions go, it turned out to be a good one. We were up before dawn again, and with coffee in hand, we hopped in the car and started our hour-and-a-half drive up Mount Hood and to Timberline Lodge. 

If you don’t recognize it by its name, go look up a picture, then come back to this article. Hopefully, most of you now get why this lodge is so iconic. It’s the very place where a certain Jack Torrance lost his marbles and tried to kill his family with an ax. Yes, Timberline Lodge served as the hotel for most exterior shots in Stanley Kubrick’s The Shining. 

As someone who read the book and watched the movie for the first time this year, I was very excited about the idea of seeing the Overlook Hotel in person. And clearly I wasn’t the only one. Even 45 years after the film’s release, people still dress up as Torrance brandishing axes at the hotel’s entrance. 

Timberline Lodge is a year-round ski resort. However, if you’re not skiing, there’s not much to do once you’re up there but walk around the hotel and maybe grab a bite to eat at the restaurant. 

Pro tip: Go up to the front desk and ask if any of the resident St. Bernards are there. It’s been a tradition since the hotel’s opening in 1937 to have resident St. Bernards. We got to meet four-month-old Heidi, who happens to be the 10th “Heidi” they’ve had. 

We spent the morning at the hotel, then inched our way down the mountain, as the roads were glazed over with ice. Without much of a plan for the rest of the day, we decided to visit a few more cideries. Our first stop was Fox Tail-Cider and Distillery, but naturally, we ended the day back at our favorite: The Gorge White House. 

Day 4: 

It was the second-to-last day of the season at Under Canvas’s Columbia River Gorge location, so most guests were checking out. Reluctantly, we packed our bags and loaded up the car. Luckily, we had a later flight, so we snuck in a few more adventures. 

First stop was Multnomah Falls. At 620 feet, it’s Oregon’s tallest waterfall. Craning my neck to gaze at the mammoth of a fall, I was reminded just how small we humans are. 

Once in Portland, we had time to see Pittock Mansion, an emblem of the city. Dubbed “Portland’s House on the Hill,” the mansion was built for Henry and Georgiana Pittock in 1912 and finished around 1914. On our tour, we learned that Pittock was an investor and owner of The Oregonian.

The 23-room restored mansion has breathtaking views of Portland and the Cascade Mountains. We explored each room, including the Gate lodge, which was the estate steward’s home. We could have stayed longer, but we had to make our way to the airport. 

As the plane lifted off and Oregon slipped out of view, I knew the Pacific Northwest was one of those places I’d return to again and again. Some places you only need to see once, but something about this one felt different. I’ll definitely be back soon.