Cowboys and Cocktails in Paso Robles

There was a moment where I second guessed myself. As I stepped into the cool, dark interior of Paso Robles Inn’s Cattlemen’s Bar, I initially felt out of place. The space, which includes a long bar, several leather couches, and a small outdoor balcony overlooking Spring Street, transports guests to an earlier Paso Robles where cowboys rule and Stetsons are required. The moment is fleeting as staff, dressed in dungarees and spurs, greet us warmly and take us to a rich mahogany table in the center of the room. 

Cattlemen’s Bar, a legacy landmark with roots dating back to 1942, was the first to be reimagined by Michelin-star chef Charlie Palmer. “We were very familiar with the property already, and we looked at it as an opportunity to bring a new breadth of culinary offerings into the Paso Robles area and fortify what they already have,” says Christa Weaving, chief marketing officer of Charlie Palmer Collective. 

Palmer’s three-decade old hospitality brand has been working to redevelop the menus and ambiance of the historic hotel’s dining and beverage program since last year. “A common thread between all of the locations that Charlie [Palmer] gets involved in is [that] these regions have all of the raw materials — a bounty of growers, farmers, and ranchers, and they also grow a lot of grapes,” says Jules Esposito, director of food and beverage operations for Charlie Palmer Collective. 

[Click to expand] A peek in Paso History at the Cattlemen’s Bar | Photo: Emma Kruch

This summer, Salina Rooftop debuted. Boasted as Paso Robles’s only rooftop bar, it’s almost the antithesis to the rich and dark interior of the cowboy hangout. The botanical-inspired space feels settled despite its novelty, with splashes of pastels brightening up the walls, high tops and sofas filled with guests lingering over brightly colored cocktails, and a horseshoe bar serving guests both pre-dinner nibbles and freshly made entrees. 

There’s a wide variety of beverage options — from nonalcoholic mocktails to wine and beer — but I opted for a signature cocktail, the Peat + Pineapple featuring Catedral Espadin mezcal. We chose the farmers’ market crudite that’s served with a thick greek labneh, which was delicious and simple. The shimmering pizza oven from Gozney and sunset views were almost enough to entice us to stay, but a meal at Cattlemen’s Bar awaited. 

If I could have, I would have ordered nearly everything on the menu. But seeing as it was myself and just one other guest, we restrained ourselves with a series of plates to share.

To start, per the recommendation of our server, we ordered the ranch wedge. Not usually one to order something as standard as iceberg lettuce with chunks of blue cheese and bacon, I was a little hesitant. His tip was spot on — unlike traditional wedge salads, this is served like a steak with the iceberg lying horizontal on a clean, white platter. All the familiar ingredients are there, but these homemade versions didn’t feel heavy or overpowering; it was crisp, light, and an excellent starter. 

The pozole immediately caught our attention next. Our Lady of Guadalupe’s Fiesta version is something I dream about all year, so I had to compare the bar’s roja to my favorite. It was equally as inviting, with a rich broth offering loads of umami and chunks of pork, plentiful and moist, swimming alongside hominy and fresh cabbage. The portion was sizable for a starter, but alas, we weren’t done yet. 

It felt inevitable that red meat was in our future, and the CB Bavette caught my eye, though the special of the month — a petite filet mignon, a selection chosen in partnership with the Cattlemen’s and Cattlewomen’s Association of San Luis Obispo County — was also a consideration. The meat was cooked perfectly to our request and elicited every flashback I have to old rodeo days in Paso Robles as a child: heat, dust, a little grit. It felt almost like we were getting away with something, eating a steak so well prepared in a casual setting where guests were invited to borrow cowboy boots from Tecovas for the evening. 

Our server didn’t want us walking away from the evening without trying the signature dessert, chocolate peanut butter pie. Imagine some of your favorite desserts — cheesecake, mud pie, Reese’s candy bar — all meshed into one confectionary. Chef Mike actually calls it “peanut butter silk,” and I’d have to agree. 

The revival from this decorated Bay Area chef definitely elevates the Paso Robles dining scene, which has been through so much evolution in the last few decades. There are local chefs that are doing amazing things, and aren’t to be forgotten. But in a legacy space like Paso Robles Inn, it’s wonderful to experience new energy and shared authenticity to a location that could have easily fallen into disrepair. Reignite the Paso Robles spirit and visit, perhaps as soon as it cools down. 

For more information, see pasoroblesinn.com.