If I could only stop writing about Hungry Cat (1134 Chapala St., 884-4701, thehungrycat.com), I would. But Chef Fultineer has come up with a surf ‘n’ turf that’s oceanic in its otherworldliness. The grilled local spiny lobster-just the tail, which is enough-is fresh, lovely, and briny, but that pork belly is oinker essence. It is to bacon what a BMW is to a Yugo. Also, it doesn’t hurt that the dish comes with sticky-crunchy sunchokes and Swiss chard succulently sauteed on the side. Every texture, every taste one could want sits on this perfect plate.