Even if the season descends too soon, there’s no harbinger of the holidays more welcomed at our house than the release of Anchor Christmas Ale. Those clever brewers in San Francisco who make Anchor Steam and the one-time hops benchmark Liberty Ale (remember those simpler times?) are releasing their 33rd annual ale with a pine tree label and bit of resinous kick, to boot. As usual, this edition (each is different) is deep and malty and well-spiced, but this year’s also features some deeper cocoa notes that tend to linger. Dessert in a bottle.