Comme a

Hoping to get a bit of Paris back in the States, we went to comme a (8479 Melrose Ave., [323] 782-1178, commecarestaurant.com), L.A.’s hot new bistro from David Myers of Sona fame. Certainly the man knows his mussels, for these moules are small and briny-sweet and lathed in luscious saffron-leek-Pernod broth. And the accompanying frites are perfect, potatoes at their French-fried best. The rest was fine-duck confit a bit outshone by its accompanying spaetzle, lamb shank richly browned and braised-but it’s those bivalves I’ll go back for. And a warning: the place is mighty loud, even at 7 p.m. on a Sunday.