The Ballad of Taco and Ono

When you offer a menu item named after your establishment, you’d better do it right. Thankfully, Wahoo’s Fish Taco, open on lower State Street since mid February, does. It redundantly features its eponymous offering, since they do use real wahoo-or ono, if you prefer; an actual fish with actual flavor-in their tacos. It’s a slab o’ filet per, grilled to lightly carbon-smoke taste perfection. If you get the platter (and do), there are two of those, plus a heaping mound of very white rice (called “ahi” rice, not after the tuna but a pepper they don’t even use anymore) and “spicy Cajun white beans,” which look a bit like pale frank ‘n’ beans but pack a tiny kick (and no franks). Add a side of guac, that’s quite green in both color and taste, and you’ll be too full to consider surfing no matter how the place is decked out. Even with a beer, you’ll be out the door only $15 lighter.

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Wahoo’s Fish Taco swims at 511 State Street. Call 966-1586 or see wahoos.com.