Mole isn’t just magic because it means you get chocolate before dessert. No, its wizardry is in the mad mix of so many ingredients pulling together in a single effort to make your taste buds cheer. It could easily be a cacophony of taste done wrong, but Altamirano’s Mexican Grille (422 N. Milpas St., 882-1390) makes mole sing. It’s a complicated song, no doubt-is that ginger?-but perfectly harmonic, especially with the chicken that’s distinct, moist, and perfectly pulled. It’s $7.95 for two enchiladas, plus too much sour cream, some guacamole, and hearty refrieds and rice.