Super Rica’s Choice Chiapas Chow

Things are rewarding, reliable, and regular at La Super Rica (622 N. Milpas St., 963-4940), just like your grand uncle who eats prunes, just like politicians will disappoint you. If it’s Tuesday, it’s sopes, and so on. So imagine my surprise on a recent visit when a new offering was taped to the window (not even on the special board): a tamal Chiapaneco de pollo. Google tamal chiapaneco and if you don’t read Spanish, you won’t understand most of the links. Eat one, though, and you’ll realize you need to know more about the food of Chiapas (which actually is more Maya than Mexican, but we’ll leave that to the sociologists). The Super Rica version is lovely in its plantain leaves that give it an almost artichoke-y scent, but inside the moist masa itself is a delight-sweet and succulent. That it’s laced with rich chicken, plump raisins, whole almonds, hard-boiled egg, that’s terrific too, but not as much as the mole sauce that ties together the tamale. One of those wonder concoctions rich with more spices than you have digits, it’s deep and delicious and exactly the right amount to match, not overwhelm, all the other flavors. There is something new under the Super Rica sun, and it’s a bright shining star all on its own.