Two Lands Shiraz

Two Lands Shiraz 2013: Australian Shiraz has often been thought of as the Jayne Mansfield of wines—perhaps a bit much too much. So along comes this collaboration between Jacob’s Creek, Australia’s largest wine brand, and California’s Ehren Jordan, formerly the winemaker at Turley, where he made big zins, but now the owner of Failla, where he makes exquisitely balanced Pinot Noir, among other varietals.

Despite clocking in at a mere 13.9% alcohol, this Shiraz packs a structured fruit punch of berry flavor with solid spice undertones and some more developed dry fruit. The entire Two Lands collaboration (there’s also a cab, chard, and pinot grigio) is marketed only in the U.S., and at $13.99 suggested retail is a pleasing bargain for meal-time wines.

But this Shiraz is the pick of the lot, a suggestion of what control can bring to big fruit.

See jacobscreek.com.