Center of Effort Pinot Noir 2012: Coming from a Sustainable in Practice, or SIP, certified estate vineyard in the heart of the Edna Valley, Center of Effort’s eponymous pinot noir features up to 40 small lots fermented separately with native yeasts and then aged separately for 20 months in French oak, too.

From that, the winemakers blend the best juice — the center of effort, of course — to make this tasty wine. (The not-quite-as-good stuff becomes Effort Pinot, sold at a lower price, $27 compared to $45.)

The result is a classic, cool-climate pinot, rich with cherry flavors, intriguing baking-rack spice notes, and hints of earth and leather. They suggest decanting for an hour, and this wine definitely opens up over time (and no doubt bottle aging).



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