The soufiya paneer tikka at Masala Spice | Credit: Matt Kettmann
I’ve eaten at Masala Spice many times since it was opened six years ago by Sri Lanka–born Chef Rajesh Selvarathnam and Laxman Perera, the publicity-shy force behind the Sushi Teri and Nikka brands. I’ve always thought the food was solid and often great, from the Indian standards to the dishes I’d never heard of, many reflecting that Sri Lankan influence in the kitchen.
But on a recent visit, I encouraged our willing group to go for almost all of the latter, and it felt like we opened up a shiny new window into the menu. First was the papdi chaat, six sour-sweet-lightly spiced panipuri-like puffs of dough filled with more crunchy things. Then the Karavali shrimp, a stir-fried dish flavored with a robust spice mix known as gunpowder. And then the most exciting of all: the Soufiya paneer tikka, in which large chunks of cheese are coated in ajwain seeds and turmeric, tossed with bell peppers and onions, and roasted in the tandoor. It came out crackling and steaming, much like a fajita plate, bringing sonic and visual flair to the already colorful dish.
We finished our ordering on a more familiar streak — Sri Lankan chicken curry, baingan bharta (one of the better uses for eggplant, in my opinion), and a couple orders of naan — but those first three dishes were most thrilling. We felt like we’d discovered a bit of edible gold at a place we thought we knew well enough, and committed to ordering even more unknown dishes the next time around.
The cherry on top was the Curran rosé of grenache gris, always one of the better pink wines around. It was made by the recently passed Kris Curran, and Masala’s price is extremely attractive at just $33 a bottle.
Masala Spice now has two locations: the original one at 5796 Calle Real in Goleta, and a new one at 1919 Cliff Drive on the Mesa in Santa Barbara. See masalaspicesb.com.
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