Full Belly Files: Wine Legends Honor Eric Sonquist

Anita and Eric Sonquist

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You’d get dizzy tracking how Eric Sonquist impacted so many corners of Santa Barbara, from his quarter-century career at UCSB, where he served as CFO of the university’s foundation and dedicated his expertise to Arts & Lectures, to his time serving the Santa Barbara Bowl, where he was critical in fundraising for the venue’s modernization.

But Sonquist, who died at age 71 on June 14, will be most fondly remembered by Santa Barbara’s winemakers, as his dedication to the region’s culinary crusade goes back decades. Officially, he served for the Santa Barbara Vintners Foundation and the Sta. Rita Hills Winegrowers Alliance, though he may have been more critical as a connective tissue and encouraging force through the generations.

“Perhaps it was being raised in a Quaker household that imbued Eric with a sense of social responsibility, to which all of us in Santa Barbara are beneficiaries,” said pioneering vintner Richard Sanford, whose co-founding of Sanford & Benedict Vineyard in the early 1970s set the stage for the growth to come. “He was an indefatigable organizer and fundraiser for numerous charitable organizations. Wine was his love second only to his family. Even in tough times, Eric always had a smile and words of encouragement.”

After meeting Eric and his wife, Anita, together in the early 1990s, Frank Ostini of the Hitching Post II became a particularly close friend. Frank and his wife, Jami, would often join the Sonquists at Bowl concerts, including the legendary Paul McCartney concert in September, which would be their last together.

Eric Sonquist (bottom center) with, clockwise from bottom left, Thekla Sanford, Anita Sonquist, Gray Hartley, Jami & Frank Ostini, and Richard Sanford at the Hitching Post II.

“Eric was the glue that kept his personal, business, and community relationships so vital and everlasting,” said Ostini, who was especially proud of the 2016 anniversary of the Sanford & Benedict Vineyard that Sonquist spearheaded. “It was so special to have him in our lives, and his mark on us will live on always.”

With his background in finance — Sonquist even ran for county treasurer many years ago — he was quick to offer sage advice when it came to the boring business side of the wine industry. But he wasn’t afraid to get his hands dirty either.

“I am forever grateful for his willingness and availability during my most challenging harvests when I was desperate for extra help,” said Kathy Joseph of Fiddlehead Cellars. “He jumped in, literally, with devotion to the most important little details, without complaint about the long hours, messy cleanup, and exhausting activities. Eric is irreplaceable!”

Bryan Babcock, another Sta. Rita Hills pioneer, called him more than just a friend. “He was pure cognoscenti with a smile on his face,” said Babcock. “Every time I saw him, I would muse, ‘If only we had a million like him.’ ”

Eric (left) with Frank Ostini, Sonja Magdevski, and Greg Brewer.

Like Ostini, Bob Lindquist met Sonquist in the early 1990s after he started making his Qupé wine with Au Bon Climat’s Jim Clendenen in a warehouse on Bien Nacido Vineyard. “He was such a warm, friendly, and curious-about-wine guy,” recalled Lindquist. “We became friends, and he was just one of those guys I was always happy to see, always so positive, and always so curious to learn more about wine and specifically what we were doing.”

Lindquist’s most enduring memory of Sonquist relates to the 2005 death of their mutual friend, the wine writer Bob Senn. Lindquist happened to be with Senn when he died, and was asked to speak at the gathering, where Sonquist was the emcee.

Bob Lindquist, Rick Longoria, and Eric Sonquist

“As I was trying to gather my thoughts, with emotions running high, Eric put his arm around my shoulder and said, ‘Just tell them about Bob’s last day like you told it to me,’ ” said Lindquist. “It was that clear-eyed moment of compassion that I will never forget.”

Sonquist’s impact extended into the restaurant community as well. “The man with a permanent positive disposition is how I will remember Eric most,” said Mitchell Sjerven, owner of the downtown Santa Barbara restaurant bouchon. “The Dude [as he was known to many] seemingly never had a bad day, or at least didn’t show it. He’s one of a rare few I believe could’ve taken over maître d’ responsibilities with no training as he was just hardwired to exude hospitality. He remembered details about your family that you mentioned in passing years ago and his only concern when dining out with friends was to be sure they all had a good time. His infectious joy will be missed at our table.”

Many are taking inspiration from how Eric faced the end of his own life, as he’d been fighting lung cancer for some time before having a stroke in January. ”Eric showed me so much courage as he fought health issues,” said Ostini. “He was determined to appreciate every moment, every friend, every day as he recognized how lucky we all are to live here and to have each other.”

Sanford agreed. “His faith and resilience dealing with adversity in declining health with grace and dignity should be an inspiration to us all,” he said. “He was a trusted and loyal dear friend who will be sorely missed.”

Food & Drink To-Dos

My inbox is overflowing with interesting food and drink things to do. Here are some of the best, abbreviated to just the very basics, listed in chronological order.

Third Window 10th Anniversary Party: There are some last-minute tickets still available for the brewery’s bash, with Carolina pit BBQ and wagyu beef, at FP Ranch in Los Olivos this Sat., Jul. 11. $95. Click here for tickets.

Tiki Thursday @ Pony Cocktails + Kitchen: This Santa Ynez restaurant is now a tiki bar every Thursday, with themed drinks and bites. Details here.

‘Top Chef’ contestant Duyen Ha is coming to Dom’s. | Credit: Courtesy

10th Anniversary Tamale Class: Richard Lambert celebrates a decade of his “Secrets of a Tamale Chef” class on Sat., Jul. 18, 1-2:30 p.m. at the Free Methodist Church, 1435 Cliff Dr. $65 suggested donation. Click here.

Rosewood Miramar’s Bounty Series: Sommelier Rob Smits continues his impressive “Bounty” series of casual winemaker dinners at the Miramar, with dates announced through October. Next up, July 23 with Outward Wines. $155. Details and tickets here.

Duyen Ha x Dom’s Taverna: Modern Vietnamese culinary superstar Duyen Ha brings seven courses of her cuisine to Dom’s Taverna for two collab dinners, Jul. 28 and 29. $184 (includes tax and tip). Click here to reserve.

Santa Maria BBQ Master Class: The Hitching Post’s Frank Ostini and Jesus Montaro will teach you how to cook over an open fire. Sun., Aug. 2, 3-6 p.m., at Hitching Post 2, Buellton. $70. Click here for details and tickets.

Taste of the Santa Ynez Valley: This series of events throughout the Santa Ynez Valley is happening October 1 to 4, and they sell out super fast, especially the dinners. Check the schedule and get your tickets now.