Goodland Santa Ynez Valley Red

Goodland Wines Santa Ynez Valley Red 2011: At least in the U.S., we tend to buy wines by varietal or maker, not grape growing location, so this red blend — along with all the Goodland Wines — is trying to buck a trend.

You won’t know it’s a syrah-grenache blend unless you look it up on their website or have a discerning palate. You will know it’s a rich mouthful of bramble and deep red fruit held in check by enough acid so it’s anything but flabby.

The fine crew at Goodland (Matt Dees, Dave Potter, Ruben Solorzano, and Chris Snowden) bottle age it an extra year, too, to make this $25 bargain yet more food-friendly. (They suggest BBQ, but in fall roasted meats and vegetables spiked with horseradish would pair well). Don’t let that austere label fool you — this is a decidedly pleasurably pour.

See goodlandwines.com.