This week, the Santa Barbara area saw a run of solid surf. After a long hiatus, I dusted off my board on Tuesday and headed out to Devereux Point, determined to catch a few waves and get the stoke back.
I paddled out and promptly found myself stuck in the reef, amid rocks covered in kelp tangles, and getting pounded repeatedly. After a while, still caught inside, I decided to try and head in, do the walk of shame, defeated.
But I was in trouble. I was exhausted and could hardly catch my breath. I felt faint and couldn’t get in with all the sets detonating on the rocks, me, and my board.
“Hey, you okay?!” A surfer paddled over a good 60 yards to me when I indicated that I was definitely not. This man, Max, and his blond friend (I didn’t get his name) swam me in to shallow water and may have saved my life.
So, Max, and his bro, thank you. True surfers look out for each other. Sorry for interrupting your session. I know you were rewarded with a few set waves.
For me, it was a good reminder to know one’s limits when dealing with the ocean.