Little Mountain Brings a Homey Sophistication to Montecito

Although Little Mountain, the buzzy new restaurant in Montecito’s Upper Village, is in a shopping center, walking up to the tall, woodsy villa-esque building on a winter night felt like entering a friend’s house (a friend with impeccable taste and gourmet cooking skills, but that’s actually not hard to come by in Montecito). 

The bright smiles of the maître d’ — who welcomed us with ease and care, as if we were family visiting for the weekend — and the fireplace that seemed to beckon us closer with every glowing crackle, added to the embrace of an entrance. For an elegant and hyped restaurant, the place exudes genuine warmth. 

This feeling, of course, is created intentionally. Hospitality pros Eva and Bryan Schreier, who own two exclusive resorts in Punta Mita and Colorado, partnered with Graham Duncan, co-owner of East Rock Capital, to create a dining experience that feels polished, but not so shiny that the glint hurts your eyes. Interior Designer Andrew Cosbie was enlisted to ensure this vibe. With one step inside the cozy lamplit dining room, it’s clear he understood the job. So much so that after our evening enjoying the rustic space, styled with salvaged redwood beams, a glowing corner bar, and a variety of still life art by Allison Russell, reflecting the location’s natural beauty, we had a seriously hard time leaving our snug leather booth. The restaurant’s origin story echoes the authentic harmony Little Mountain exudes.

Executive Chef Diego Moya explained the magic that set things in motion. “Some lovely regulars of mine at my first restaurant in New York moved to Santa Barbara a few years ago and met Graham Duncan. He was ideating a restaurant to bring to the community, and he reached out to them asking if they knew any chefs that might be a good fit. A few years later, it all came together.”

While the ambiance oozes a homey feel, the food is definitely a more sophisticated menu than what I’d find in my mom’s kitchen. Moya specializes in seasonal and inventive vegetable-forward cooking. Born in Chile, his love of produce was primed as a kid picking and preserving various fruits on his family’s property. When he was 6, they moved to Long Island, and his fascination with the world of restaurants and meticulous ingredient sourcing heated up in his family’s pizzeria. His career reflects a world tour of culinary inspiration, working in vibrant kitchens from Astrid y Gastón in Lima, to Nahm in Bangkok, to Le Comptoir and L’Arpège in Paris.

When he returned home to New York, armed with an appreciation for regional cuisine, and an understanding of biodynamics and permaculture, he was eager to shape the menus at Hemlock and Racines. He then became the Culinary Director of the Brooklyn-based Oberon Group. Few places are as bountiful in the fresh produce department as S.B., so when the opportunity to lead the kitchen at Little Mountain arose, Moya couldn’t say no. 

“After spending many years navigating New York and the dining scene there, I decided that it might be time to search for a different place to lay roots. I’ve always chased ingredients, and California being so lush with materia prima, it seemed like the right choice for a new beginning. The founding team being so involved and passionate is what sealed it for me,” Moya said. 

We tasted this excitement in all of the dishes, starting with the zippy hiramasa and manzano pepper with pineapple guava aguachile. My friend and I found ourselves bartering over the last few morsels of the straight-from-the-sea yellowtail bathed in a bright and citrus-y sauce. Moya’s menu pays respect to all things local, including the artisans who do things best. 

“Having traveled extensively, I can say that this place is magical for someone that loves bright ingredients with depth and vibrancy,” Moya said. 

And if we’re talking homey comfort, there is certainly no better way to start your dinner than with fresh and S.B.-based Oat Bakery seeded sourdough and the house-cultured butter with flaky sea salt. Moya’s cooking reflects a true desire to revel in all things fresh from the farm. This urge is something you can taste in every bite and is reflected in the beautiful badger flame beets with habanada pepper and walnut. 

“The inspiration comes mostly from trying to bridge experience with the wide palate of vegetables and products in the region. The hearth is the heart of the kitchen and the mandate is to try to pay homage to the great coastal food traditions of the world with coastal Mexico, northern Spain and eastern Asia being the focus. The goal is to create a menu that is truly Santa Barbara,” Moya said. 

Another highlight included the tender wild salmon topped with embered greens and nestled over a savory pistachio gremolata. It can be surprisingly hard to get a great salmon dish out for dinner in S.B., and Moya’s delicate yet thoughtful preparation let the fish and his artistic embellishments shine in simpatico.

“If we can showcase the ingredients that are here, with grace, I think we will have done what we set out to do,” Moya explained. This entree was a delicious example of that philosophy. The professional yet heartfelt service also made every bite of food taste even better. We were about ready to invite our lovely server Rebecca to snuggle herself into the booth with us. 

I would be absolutely remiss to not mention the spectacular wine list created under the wise guidance of esteemed wine aficionado and winemaker of Trippers and Askers Wine, Hayden Felice. The restaurant’s selections reflect a regional and international perspective, offering something for every palate. Felice was personable and generous with helping me find the perfect glass. I was surprised and delighted by the perfectly balanced grenache by Brij Wines in San Luis Obispo, and the list is a trove of many more gems. 

“General Manager Isauro Zavala Aguilar and Opening Wine Consultant Hayden Felice handle cocktails, N/A beverages, and wine,” Moya said. “The goal is to showcase sustainably farmed, singular, and delicious drinks that pair with our cuisine.” 

My dining partner enjoyed their cocktails, especially the crisp negroni, and we both oohed and aahed over the Babcock Ultra-Late Harvest viognier. This sweet but not too sweet sipper paired with a dessert is the ultimate high note to close out a dreamy meal: a sourdough ice cream blanketed in a marshmallow-fluff-like “toast crema.” We savored every cloud-like bite of this creamy concoction.

When asked about his favorite menu items, Moya’s answer was fluid and organic, mimicking the way he likes to cook.

“That feeling changes every day, which is inspiring. Right now, we are serving incredible Caraflex cabbages that are slowly grilled over the hearth with an approximation of a “mole” using all of the beautiful late-season winter fruits and nuts from the region. It’s a great way to showcase my favorite cabbage variety, the wood fire, and a gentle nod to Mexico,” Moya said.

For a chef who has harnessed a wealth of experience and exudes creativity with every flick of the wrist, his goal for Little Mountain remains simple: “I hope mostly that people have beautiful meals with friends and family.” 

As my friend and I left the restaurant with smiles on our faces and walked into the cool night, hugging, laughing, and reminiscing about our incredible experience, I can say that although it’s only been open a few months, Moya has accomplished his goal.

Little Mountain, 516 San Ysidro Road, Montecito. Open Wednesday-Sunday, 5-9 p.m. See littlemountainsb.com.