A Peek at Pico, 10 Years In

When Kali Kopley and Will Henry opened Pico in Los Alamos in 2016, they walked the restaurant floor, taking turns cradling their one-month-old daughter, Winslow. To help celebrate Pico’s 10th anniversary on February 28, Winslow got on stage to join her dad’s band HWY 246 for a song. That’s some serious, personal markers for a business.

But it’s also a great emblem for what Kopley and Henry wanted the place to be when it began. They haven’t swayed from the vision Henry articulated when interviewed by the Indy then: “We want to create a great culinary experience using locally produced vegetables and meats, to make as much of our ingredients in-house as possible, and to pair it with the world’s best wines.” But beyond that, there’s “the mission to make you feel at home,” as not just their website puts it, but more specifically, the page called “Ethos.”

“You don’t see a Sysco truck pull in front,” Henry proudly points out. “Everything we try to serve is local. I was carrying boxes of produce in just this morning.” He then went on to praise, in particular, Finley Farms for growing “the best carrots anywhere.” They currently show up on the Pico menu glazed and adorned with whipped feta, Figueroa Mountain Road olive oil, and fresh herbs — often from their restaurant’s own garden, which also turns out to be one of the loveliest spots to dine, too. It also makes for a great site for a soiree, like the one celebrating the anniversary. Especially when they were pouring Lumen’s Hey Ginger pet-nat, which sounds a bit wacky but is a refreshing delight on a warm late summer afternoon.

The family vibe, though, is key — especially since Kopley has been the head chef for some time now. Henry stressed how much her presence in the kitchen helped them keep singular control of the vision. You see that in something seemingly as “simple” as a perfectly cooked filet of Channel Island line-caught fish — it was rockfish at our dinner — atop a column of jasmine rice in a shallow pool of bright and rich coconut lemongrass curry sauce. Or a vegetarian cassoulet with Jalama Ranch chanterelle, Lompoc butter beans, kale, shallot, and more of that Finley Farms carrot. There was so much developed flavor that no one could miss the meat. 

Speaking of developed flavor, while wine rules at Pico due to the Lumen connection, not to mention Henry’s family ties to wine importing, the cocktails impress, too. From a botanic beaut like the High Hopes — German amaro, green chartreuse, Licor 43, fennel, basil, celery bitters, and egg white for the silky, foamy touch — served in a snifter so you get all the aromatics in, to the spirit-free For He’s a Jolly Good Fennel — cucumber tonic redolent with basil, lime, and that licorice kick from the fennel — you’re getting drinks that are cleverly conceived and expertly prepared.

Add it all up, and at this point, it’s clear Pico is one of the centers of the Los Alamos community. Throughout the evening, a host of area figures stopped in to pay their respects, from Full of Life Flatbread’s Clark Staub to Visit the Santa Ynez Valley Executive Director Shelby Sim and Peter Stolpman from Stolpman Vineyards.

Of course, Henry and winemaker Lane Tanner still make Lumen wine — with Pico functioning as the winery’s tasting room — but they also make some of it from the Santa Maria Valley’s relatively recently planted Warner Henry Vineyard, named after Will’s late father. They like to hold Know Your Farmer meals, when, perhaps, the person who raised that Mangalica pig you’re enjoying from Winfield Farms can tell you about how it got to your plate. 

And there’s the connection with the Los Alamos Theatre Group, whose productions sometimes feature Will Henry as one of its actors. Back in December, there were performances of A Miracle on Bell Street at Pico itself, and more dinner theater will return this May with a run of the musical Audition. 

As testament to the hard work and devotion to service, it seems best to end with this anecdote from the anniversary evening. Busily buzzing throughout Pico, bussing, checking in on guests, and supervising the kitchen, Kopley quickly stopped at our table to half-joke, “I heard it was a great party…. I’m sorry I missed it.”

Pico at The Los Alamos General Store, 458 Bell Street, Los Alamos, losalamosgeneralstore.com