Ancora Osteria Revives the Upper Village’s Al Fresco Scene

In the mid-2000s, I spent some time with a wealthy toy maker from Chicago who lived in a massive Montecito mansion. No, he wasn’t the most famous Chicago toy-maker-turned-Montecitan, but Rouben Terzian wanted to promote his latest line of dolls, the Only Hearts Club. I’d written a tiny bit about him for Time magazine, but he wanted something more. So, we’d lunch at Via Vai in Montecito’s Upper Village, where the al fresco scene felt plucked from a primetime soap opera.

As we talked toys and tucked into anchovy-streaked pizza, I watched the other patrons — all dressed couture-casual, some freshly coiffed, others in post-tennis gear — trade glances and polite salutations, inquiring about the kids and the homes and the summer trips. It seemed to be where Montecito felt most comfortable with itself: supported by dappled sunlight and mountain views; nourished by reliably delicious, not-too-heavy cuisine; and embraced by the friendly atmosphere of a country club, albeit one with no annual dues required.

I’d largely forgotten about those lunches with Rouben until I arrived at Ancora Osteria for an early dinner a few weeks ago and experienced the exact same sensations on the exact same patio that was once Via Vai. Though not even 6 p.m., the tented space was nearly packed. There was a successful tech entrepreneur with his family on one side, a famous politician holding court on another, and probably enough wealth in the shade to start a large bank. As well-tanned, pastel-wearing families strode in, sweaters draped over shoulders, they’d wave to their already seated friends, catching up on vacations and college plans. 

It felt again like an exclusive but open society, and I realized that Ancora, so long as it fosters this vibe, will almost certainly excel here. And that was even before I sipped my elderflower-kissed ‘Cito Spritz or nibbled on the seared yellowfin. 

“I like when people come in and see people they know — that’s part of the club feel,” said co-owner Luca Crestanelli, who opened Ancora in August. “My hope is that the rest of Santa Barbara will come in too.”

They will, because Ancora brings Crestanelli’s captivating cuisine about a half-hour closer for those who crave his Santa Ynez Valley restaurants S.Y. Kitchen (in Santa Ynez, since 2013), Nella (Los Olivos, 2020), and the counter-service Stica (Santa Ynez, 2025). All were immediately popular upon opening and remain so to this day, delivering seasonally shifting, farm-dependent menus of Italian-inspired dishes that are focused on purity of ingredients and clarity of flavors.

That’s the plan for Ancora too, where the menu blends the apps, salads, and homemade pasta that S.Y. Kitchen is known for with Nella’s more comfort-leaning entrees and pinsa, the fluffy, fermented-dough style of pizza from Rome. Our meal, for instance, included that delicately seared tuna with an uncommon array of savory veg ($24); a crunchy Caesar with delicate bleu cheese ($19); a summery zucchini-basil soup ($20); the blistered cherry tomato pinsa ($27); and the Mezzi Paccheri all’Astice ($55), like a lobster bisque with macaroni.

It was never a question of what to do on this side of the mountain for Crestanelli. “People always want the same thing, which is good high-quality food, well presented,” he said, his Veronese accent still sweet after more than two decades in California. “I don’t think here is anything different.”

It was more about where. “We have been looking in Santa Barbara for a few years, even before the pandemic,” said Crestanelli. “We always had it in mind. But we never found the right place for us.”

When Via Vai closed after 30 years, in early 2024, Crestanelli sensed some serendipity. “I’ve always loved this location,” he said. “It was the first restaurant I ever dined at in Santa Barbara.” He signed the lease by that fall. 

After opening doors on August 13, he’s now focused on mastering the newly acquired kitchen equipment and training the newly hired team to match the restaurant group’s renowned standards. That means Crestanelli, who lives in the Santa Ynez Valley, will be spending about 90 percent of his time at Ancora until it’s just right. 

“The most important thing we’re working on is consistency,” he said. “That’s the hardest part of any business. Anyone can cook a good meal once. Consistency is going to take a few months to be where we want to be. But we started with a good team, so I have a good feeling about it.”

This learning phase hasn’t deterred diners from showing up steadily every night since they opened, when tables were booked more than three weeks out. Our meal was definitely reminiscent of the ones I’ve had at S.Y. Kitchen and Nella, showing textural and flavor surprises atop a satisfying foundation. 

I’d never had seared fish with tiny potatoes and zucchini, but it worked, and the stringy cheese in the zuc soup gave a chewy heft. The Caesar’s friendly funk was courtesy of the bleu cheese, and the pinsa was light as air. “The bread is just like a pillow,” said my wife. We drank a Normandy cider and a few Italian wines, and finished with madeira and tiramisu, which we’d now like to do at the end of every meal. 

We certainly over-ordered, which is somewhat of a job requirement when writing about a restaurant (and not paying, aside from a fat tip), so our bill exceeded $300. But a cost-minded couple could share two drinks, an app, a salad, and a pinsa and escape for around $120, which is similar to most other nice restaurants these days.

Going forward, Ancora will likely feature brunch and lunch, which may do better than dinner, if the past is any indication. Expect the coast to become more of a focus. “We are getting more of a feel of where we are, and you have the ocean in the vicinity,” said Crestanelli, seagulls squawking in the skies above him. “I’m inclined to have a little more seafood. We started with very little.”

He greatly admires the longevity of his octogenarian business partner, Mike Gordon, whose Toscana in West Los Angeles just celebrated 35 years. “In L.A., that’s like a thousand years old,” laughed Crestanelli. “And it’s going solid. It’s quite amazing to watch.”

So don’t expect this to be Crestanelli’s last concept. “I love this job,” he said. “As long as we can find good people, we’re gonna keep going forward.”

He’s just pleased to see Ancora’s club already gaining members. “We have been welcomed in an incredible way,” he said. “I hope we can deliver what people expect.”

Ancora Osteria, 1483 East Valley Rd., Montecito; (805) 869-2338; ancoraosteria.com