Paul Wellman (file)
The Blue Owl at Zen Yai
The 2011 Foodies
A Baker’s Dozen of Deliciousness
Thursday, September 29, 2011
There’s nothing terrible about twos for the second year of The Santa Barbara Independent’s annual Foodie Awards, which publicly recognize the people and places responsible for making our town such a feast. Once again, we received close to 100 nominations from more than two dozen of the area’s leading tastemakers and then fine-tuned that list to a baker’s dozen of deliciousness.
From pizza for adults and Chinese food with a squeeze to killer croissants, fabulous flatbread, and service with a smile, the 2011 Foodies shine the light on spots we should all celebrate. Do we see any trends that stand out? Why, yes: State Street isn’t such a bad place to eat anymore, or, in the case of our Lifetime Achievement Award winner Downey’s, it hasn’t been for nearly three decades. So without further hors d’oeuvres, we present this year’s especially exciting epicurean entrées.
Late, Great Dining Award: The Blue Owl at Zen Yai
If the thought of getting food at — or even staying up ’til — 11:30 p.m. is too daunting for you, then you’ll just have to get over it, for Cindy Black’s Southeast-Asian street-food–influenced menu at The Blue Owl is worth feeling tired the next morning. The red-curry shrimp roll with fried tofu and caramelized onions might be the single best thing to eat in S.B. right now. And while dealing with drunks means that “some nights, I’m Don Rickles with a vagina and a wok,” Black also admits, “We have grass-fed burgers from Rancho San Julian, and organic produce from the market. I don’t want to get typecast too much as drunk bar food ’cause I want to open in the day eventually with a much nicer menu!” (425 State St., 705-0991; theblueowlsanta barbara.com)
By Paul Wellman (file)
John Pettitt at Cádiz Restaurant & Lounge
Tops in Tapas Award: Cádiz Restaurant & Lounge
When Cádiz debuted, it immediately caused a stir, partially because of its mildly Moorish exotica interior, but mostly due to Chef John Pettitt getting to play with the toolbox of southern Mediterranean flavors, coming up with items like lamb albóndigas (meatballs). “What separates Cádiz from other restaurants is that everything is hand-picked by myself from the Farmers Market,” Pettitt reveals. “I examine each individual vegetable before I purchase it. I develop menu items by walking the market and buying items at their peak of each individual season. Simple, to the point, and captures that time of the year in one dish.” Of course, it’s tapas, so you’ll eat a lot more than one. But perhaps that means tapas is really just Spanish for yummy. (509 State St., 770-2760)
Embracing the Past Award: Cold Spring Tavern
Paul Wellman (file)
Cold Spring Tavern
That Stagecoach Road street address is a hint at what we’re talking about: Cold Spring was established in 1886, during Grover Cleveland’s first term as U.S. president. It’s easy to imagine a stagecoach rolling back up, but on weekends now, it might have to fight for a parking spot with the Harleys for the beer, bands, and tri-tip. Somehow, even a roadside motorcycle stop seems quaint at this point. Plus there’s venison, rabbit, and buffalo black-bean chili, the kind of dish that makes it feel as if someone not only cooked for you but also hunted for you, too, especially when that stone hearth is ablaze. (5995 Stagecoach Rd., 967-0066; coldspringtavern.com)
The ‘Izzy’ Lifetime Achievement Award: Downey’s Restaurant
James Sinclair
John Downey
The danger is taking John Downey for granted. His restaurant has been on State Street since 1982, and it’s decidedly not a place to chase after food fashions (he might be the anti-Voltaggio). But he was sourcing the best local produce years before that was faddish, and that care is still evident on every plate. “Very soon after we opened, someone wrote a restaurant guide,” Downey remembers. “It was a kind review, which wrapped up with something like, ‘It remains to be seen whether John Downey will have the business savvy to make it last.’ In true Brit style, I never ever considered that failure was an option, although I remember clearly stating that ‘we can do this intense pace for five years and beat the odds … maximum. Then we’ll have to move on.’” Luckily, that on is still going on, and if you want a snapshot of what’s up at this venerable spot, go for the four-course Taste of Santa Barbara menu. Who knew we tasted that good? For that and so much more, Downey’s takes home the Lifetime Achievement Award this year, named the Izzy after the first recipient, La Super-Rica Taquería’s Isidoro Gonzalez. (1305 State St., 966-5006; downeyssb.com)
Sassy, Classy Service Award: Esther Lau at Hollister Brewing Company
Paul Wellman
Hollister Brewing Company server Esther Lau
Everybody who goes to HBC knows Esther, and Esther knows everyone who goes to HBC. She’s been there for almost five years, and was at Camino Real Café (the same location as HBC) for another five years before that. That’s knowledge earned; so when she tells you what beers to drink in what order, you just do it, for she’s always right (you’ll never order a Hip Hop Double IPA first on her watch). “You know she is genuine about it because you see these same people coming back and requesting her section; you hear them talking to her about her family and what she’s been doing since the last time they were in,” says HBC manager Jennifer Rose. “She is definitely a classy lady, and we are lucky to have her.” (6980 Marketplace Dr., Goleta, 968-2810; hollisterbrewco.com)
By Paul Wellman
Full of Life Flatbread Chef Dylan Fultineer with a San Marzano Tomato pizza with heirloom tomatoes, barata, and fresh basil
On weekends, Full of Life’s frozen-retail-pizza-production space gets turned into a restaurant that you can only wish was open eight days a week. The flatbreads are the stars (how could they not be with toppings like chanterelles, smoked pork belly bacon, stinging nettles, and farm eggs?), but the apps always amaze, too, even when they seem to be “merely” salads. A big part of that are all the of-the-season specials that take advantage of the best farms in the area. Not that they needed to, but Full of Life also landed Dylan Fultineer (Hollister Brewing Co., The Hungry Cat) as head chef this summer, guaranteeing yet more wonderful weekends. Oh, did we mention the best priced and most regionally eclectic wine list around? (225 W. Bell St., Los Alamos, 344-4400; fulloflifefoods.com)
It’s always hard to be clear when cocktail traditions begin (thank you, drink #2!), but The Hungry Cat was at least at the forefront of the area’s move to potent potables made with freshly squeezed juice. Stir in a respect for the classics (a Dark and Stormy, say), while shaking that up with experimentation (an Orange Julius), and you get a drink program that’s second to none. Even better, from 3-6 p.m., Tuesday-Sunday, all those cocktails (and draft beers) are half-price. A 10-buck cocktail can burn more than grain alcohol, but for a fiver, everything’s nicer, especially a Greyhound Proper, with Plymouth gin, and then there’s that lovely candied grapefruit peel. It’s not like sticking around for some peel ’n’ eat shrimp would ruin the night, either. (1134 Chapala St., 884-4701; thehungrycat.com)
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Excellent choices!
mtndriver (anonymous profile)
September 29, 2011 at 4:49 p.m. (Suggest removal)