The Knock’s Door Is Open as Blackbird Flies the Coop

The script for the Hotel Californian’s dining concept in the former Blackbird space has changed, with a new name, “The Knock Kitchen + Cocktails,” a new, more casual menu, and some new theming. It’s now a ”cinematic coastal gastropub inspired by Alfred Hitchcock,” but the striking space, designed by internationally renowned architect Martyn Lawrence Bullard, who also did the hotel’s distinctive modern Moorish- and Moroccan-influenced interiors, is thankfully still intact, with one particularly notable addition: the dark hallway between the restaurant and the lobby bathroom area is now decorated from floor to ceiling with brass knockers of every shape and type imaginable. 

This ode to the trademark tension in Hitchcock’s films such as Dial M For Murder, where each ring of the phone and every knock on the door signals some possible life-and-death consequences, was the most obvious cinematic addition to the space, but the menu itself has some fun nods to the mystery world in the form of unexpected ingredients or twists.  

I started my evening with the Monkey Shines cocktail, a clever riff on an espresso martini featuring the subtle addition of Crème de Banana to the traditional vodka, espresso, and coffee liqueur libation. The menu is heavy on shareable plates, as befits a hotel pub. The decadent bone marrow + steak tartare plate was an absolute knockout. It was perfectly seasoned with capers, shallots, pickled mustard seeds, and other spices, all accompanied by a lovely toasted baguette to help sop up every bite of this deliciousness. I’ll definitely return for this one.

We also really enjoyed the short-rib croquettes, a unique take on croquettes with a nice smoky corn and chipotle aioli sauce that reminded me of the Fiesta elote street corn being served at the Mercados just a few blocks away. 

The mini ahi tuna tostadas were good, but not nearly as original as the other two apps we tried. The Wedge Alibi Salad featured green goddess dressing (another twist), and we also tried the Brussels sprouts, which had a soy, maple, and lime sauce that was pretty unique. My other favorite savory dish of the night was the ’nduja shrimp and grits, with Cajun-style spices and smoked gouda, along with a great kick of flavor from the ’nduja sausage. 

In addition to fish and chips, steak frites, a grilled mushroom burger, a crispy chicken sandwich, and a tasty-looking burger (which is just $15 on Wednesday nights, along with $10 bourbons and $5 beers), The Knock also has a couple of large plates that I’m very curious about. There’s the $155 Big Ass Bone-In Tomahawk (it feeds two to four people) and the $72 Everything-but-the-Head Chicken (it feeds 2-4). Maybe next time … with more friends to share entrees with. 

My second cocktail, the pretty, flower-topped Pleasure Garden, had some nice subtle vanilla and fruit flavors, along with rosé, vodka, and passion fruit liqueur and syrup. Not only was it refreshing and balanced, but it also made an excellent lead-in to the pièce de résistance dessert: a Flaming Neapolitan Baked Alaska, complete with vanilla bean meringue and fresh strawberry confit. It was definitely a happy ending time for this evening at the “cinematic coastal gastropub,” as the flames danced, the ice cream softened, and the meringue fired to a nice crisp atop a thin layer of something that resembled a rich, chocolate brownie. 

The new restaurant concept still offers something for those in search of fine dining, but the new menu makes the vibe much more accessible for people wanting to pop by just for drinks and a few small bites. 

The Knock Kitchen + Cocktails is located inside Hotel Californian (36 State St.). Open Tuesday-Saturday, 5 p.m.-close. See hotelcalifornian.com/the-knock-kitchen.htm.$$$