I’ve been a frequent diner at Dom’s Taverna since it opened late last summer on East Victoria Street, an easy walk from the New Vic, Granada, and Arlington theaters, where I spend many evenings on the arts writing beat. Not only is the Basque-inflected, seafood-forward food excellent, the kitchen is open ’til 11 p.m. most nights, and the service and friendly atmosphere of Dom’s (starting with the chef/co-owner Dominique “Dom” Crisp himself) gives it a warm, welcoming vibe that is getting harder and harder to find in Santa Barbara these days.
Tasked with dipping into some recent menu updates, I couldn’t resist also having my perennial favorite, the house specialty crudo, made with the best local catch of the day — halibut, in this case — served raw with beautifully sliced avocado, edible flowers and sesame, all delicately doused with a tangy house-made soy sauce of sorts. It paired perfectly with the Don Raj Spritz, a light yet complex concoction of vermouth, Cynar (an amaro brand), rosemary, orange, and cardamom.
Next up was the gorgeously plated Prawn Ajo Blanco, which looked a bit like a sunflower with poached Pacific prawns surrounding a bed of garlic-almond bread sauce, paprika oil, crouton, tomato, and anchovy olives. A tantalizing mix of flavors and textures to be sure. It went really well with the new “GGGG,” a Green Goddess grilled gem salad with gorgeous garlic chip croutons. I know the World Cup reportedly inspired a ranch dressing craze, but Green Goddess dressing is also having a welcome resurgence, and Chef Dom’s version is vastly elevated from my memories of the ’70s fare.
That Green Goddess flair also turns up in the new version of Papas Bravas Milan, this time topping crushed crispy-friend fingerling potatoes that are out of this world.
We also tried a new tomato and artichoke pasta dish that showcased lovely Spanish artichokes and cherry tomatoes that tasted fresh off the vine. Also new to the menu are Croketas Victor, with ground halal lamb and minced Jidori chicken, Josper grilled veggies, gently caramelized with a slight edge of smoke and paprika garlic oil, as well as carrozza al forno, a paella-adjacent dish, with a choice of local crab, chicken, or Morcilla (blood sausage), along with sofrito, herbs, and aioli. That one’s definitely on my dance card for next time.
New to the cocktail menu are the stunning green D’Alizia, made with rum, cream of coconut, pandan, lime, and edible flowers, as well as a number of new zero-proof cocktails made with NA gin, whiskey, rum, and aperitifs.
The Basque Cheesecake is always a favorite choice for dessert, but I tried a new one this time and was equally enamored with the Torrija, a brûléed Pain de Mie, with vanilla ice cream and caramel sauce that reminds me a little bit of elevated French toast. If you’ve still got the itch for the cheesecake after trying the Torrija, there’s always La Cuchara, a decadent bite that tops a spoonful of the Basque Cheesecake with three grams of Osetra caviar. Decadent, delicious, comforting, and fun — just like the restaurant itself.
Dom’s Taverna, 30 E. Victoria St.; (805) 724-4338; domstaverna.com; @domstaverna, $$$
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