Tatomer Grüner Veltliner

Tatomer Meeresboden Grüner Veltliner Santa Barbara County 2012: This Austrian grape was the sommerlier star a few years back, but New World interpretations, such as this lean but flavor-packed version by Santa Barbara’s Islay Street resident Graham Tatomer, are returning grüners to the spotlight.

In coming years, the Meeresboden — which means roughly “ocean soils,” a reference to the sandy, former seabed spots where the grape excels on the Central Coast — will be a county blend from different vineyards, but 2012 is all from the Sebastiano Vineyard on the eastern fringe of the Sta. Rita Hills. It’s got minerality, citrus, and a touch of grass going on, bringing a lot more to the table than a lot of the racy and sparse grüners found at the same price.

It’s one of many intriguing wines offered at Les Marchands upcoming August 10 futures tasting in the Funk Zone. See tatomerwines.com and lesmarchandswine.com for tickets.