Desperada Wines Borealis.1.E4 Santa Ynez Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2013: Falling somewhere on the wine aging continuum between oak barrels and steel tanks are large clay pots know as amorphae, and though once preferred en masse by the ancients, these terra cotta vessels are on the comeback trail.

This small batch sauv blanc (52 cases) from McGinley Vineyard in Happy Canyon reveals the intriguing results: papaya, peach, and bananas off the nose, with a vivid freshness that might be overpowered by oak, followed by crisp apple and a lush mouthfeel once sipped, a well rounded experience that a steel process may have made too sleek. Made in Paso Robles by Vailia Esh, who is a member of the hard-working, artisanally minded Plough Wine Group along with Sans Liege, Folkway, Field Recordings, and Herman Story, this is just one of the selections she’ll be showing off at the next Garagiste Festival at the end of March.

See californiagaragistes.com for tickets and desperada.com for info.

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